Back Roads Germany (Dk Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

173

Pillar with sculptures

in Forchheim

DRIVE 16: Franconia of the Prince-Bishops

EAT AND DRINK

BAYREUTH

Lohmühle moderate

Regional produce forms the basis

for the excellent Franconian cooking

in this rustic restaurant.

Badstrasse 37, 95444; 0921 530 60;

http://www.hotel-lohmuehle.de; opening

hours change during the Festspiele,

closed Jan–Apr: Sun dinner; Sept–Oct:

Mon–Fri dinner

Restaurant 1927 expensive

The Goldener Anker hotel’s restaurant

offers refined Franconian cook ing,

with a few Mediterranean influences,

matched with fine German and

French wines.

Opernstrasse 6, 95444; 0921 787 77 40;

http://www.anker-bayreuth.de; open Wed–Sun

dinner only, daily during the Festspiele

FORCHHEIM

Kammerersmühle moderate

A late-Renaissance watermill is the

setting for this Weinstube and restaurant,

which serves Franconian and interna-

tional dishes with wines from Franconia.

Wiesenstrasse 10, 91301; 09191 70 45

55; http://www.kammerers-muehle-

forchheim.de; open Mon–Sat

Other options

Forchheim has a number of tiny

breweries, some of which operate tradi-

tional Brauereigaststätten – rustic old

pubs in which to sample the brew –

such as Eichhorn (Bamberger Strasse 9;

09191 64 768) and Hebendanz

(Sattlertorstrasse 14, 09191 607 47).

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40

Crags, Castles, and Caves

The Franconian Switzerland

(Fränkische Schweiz) has long been

one of Germany’s most popular

regions for its startling, craggy

natural beauty and dramatic castles

and pretty villages, as well as for the

opportu nities it offers for outdoor

activities, from cycling and hiking

to rock climbing and canoeing.

The region’s limestone geology

ensures the natural wonders con-

tinue under ground in the form of

strikingly beautiful cave systems,

some of which can be visited.

5 Forchheim

Bavaria; 91301

With a historic core centerd on

the tall, onion-domed tower

of Martinskirche and a 15th-

cen tury half-timbered Rathaus,

this lively small town, with timber-

framed houses, is well worth

explor ing. It was the sec ond seat

of the Bamberg Prince-Bishops in

the Middle Ages. Their palace, the

Kaiserpfalz, has pre cious late-

Gothic frescoes and is now the

Pfalzmuseum (May –Oct: closed

Mon, Nov–Apr: open Wed, Thu & Sun),

with sec tions devoted to

local history, archae ology,

and folk costume.

ª Leave Forchheim along

Bamberger Strasse, following

yel low signs for Bamberg.

This joins the B22. At Bamberg,

follow signs to Zentrum

to reach the parking lot.

3 Tüchersfeld
Bavaria; 91278
Looking as though its houses have
been dropped at random among
rocky pinnacles, tiny Tüchersfeld is
even more improbably scenic than
its bigger neighbor, Pottenstein.
The village is home to the Fränkische
Schweiz Museum (Apr–Nov: closed

Mon; Dec–Mar: open Sun), which has
peasant costumes, furni ture, arts
and crafts, and an 18th-cen tury
synago gue alongside displays on the
region’s geology and archaeology.
ª At the end of Tüchersfeld turn
left to Unterailsfeld. In Unterailsfeld,
turn right on to Oberailsfeld Strasse
to Oberailsfeld. Take Burgenstrasse
driving through the village of
Oberailsfeld; follow the brown signs
for Burg Rabenstein.

Above left Canoeists on the banks of

the Püttlach river, near Tüchersfeld

Below Pottenstein’s main street

4 Burg Rabenstein
Bavaria; 95491

Perched on a dramatic
crag overlooking the Ailsbach
Valley and with its oldest
parts dating from the 12th
century, the castle of Rabenstein
(guided tours: Apr–Oct: Tue–Sun;
Nov–Mar: Sat & Sun) looks
every inch the impre gnable
medieval fortress, though
much of it was ruined during
the Thirty Years’ War (1618–48).
There are regular interesting
falconry displays (Apr–
Oct: Tue–Sun) here. The

Sophienhöhle Caves
(guided tours: Apr–Oct:
Tue–Sun), among the most
beautiful showcaves in
Germany, are just a ten-
minute walk away.

ª Take the B470 west ward toward

Forchheim. Parking is available in the

lot on Pradeplatz.