DRIVE 16: Franconia of the Prince-Bishops 175
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40Bishops and Empire
Formed from the eastern part of
Charlemagne’s empire in the 9th
century and dissolved in 1806, the
Holy Roman Empire was a loose
alliance of states under the aegis
of an emperor chosen by Kurfürsten
(electors), though in practice the
Habsburgs dominated. Bamberg
and Würzburg were independent
Prince-Bishoprics of the empire in
which the bishops wielded temporal
and spiritual power. Aschaffenburg
was the second seat of the archbish-
ops of Mainz, since the city domi-
nated the largest of their territories.Above left Riverside view of Bamberg
and Kirche St. Michael Above right
Visitors strolling along Obere Brücke,
Bamberg Below Pretty Altes Rathaus,
set on a mid-river island, BambergEAT AND DRINK IN BAMBERGBrudermühle moderate
Wild boar, venison, carp, and trout are
among the specialities on the menu of
this atmospheric riverside restaurant.
Schranne 1, 96049; 0951 95 52 20;
http://www.brudermuehle.de
Messerschmitt moderate–expensive
Regional produce, including goose liver,
duck, and venison, features on the
menu of this fine dining room.
Lange Strasse 41, 96047; 0951 29 78 00;
http://www.hotel-messerschmitt.de;
Jan–Mar: closed Sun
Other options
The best-known local beer in
Bamberg is the Rauchbier. A few of
Brauereigaststätten (brewery-owned
restaurants) worth visiting are
Greifenklau (Laurenziplatz 20, 0951
532 19), Spezial (Obere Königstrasse
10, 0951 243 04) and Schlenkerla
(Dominkanerstrasse 6).Bavarian Dynasty, whose architectural
influence reached as far as Prague. A
guided tour goes through the richly
decorated state rooms, but visitors are
free to admire the German medieval
and Baroque paintings in the palace
gallery at leisure. Don’t miss the lovely
rose garden behind the palace, with
its pretty Baroque café (open summer)
and excellent views over the old city.
Leave Domplatz along Obere
Karolinenstrasse. On the corner of
Domstrasse stands the Missionshaus
St. Heinrich 7 , an elegant mansion
that was once the Bamberg residence
of Bayreuth’s Margraves. Turn right
down Michaelsberger Strasse, follow-
ing the street uphill to the former
Benedictine monsatery of Kirche
St. Michael 8 , whose church (open
daily) was rebuilt in the late-Gothic
style after a fire in 1610. The Baroque
mon as tery build ings contain a
brewery museum, the Fränkisches
Brauereimuseum (open Wed–Sun).
On leaving the museum, stop by
the garden behind the mon as tery.
Next, return to the Aufsess Strasse,
which becomes Elisabethen Strasse
to reach the river. On the opposite
bank is a pictur esque huddle of
fisher men’s cottages known as Klein
Venedig 9 , or Little Venice. Turn
back up Elisabethen Strasse and left
into Obere Sandstrasse, which leads
to Dominkanerstrasse. Bear right
into Herrenstrasse then left to the
Obere Brücke, a bridge that passes
through the Altes Rathaus 0 , set
on a mid-river island. The old town
hall houses the Sammlung Ludwig
(closed Mon) collection of Strasbourg
and Meissen porcelain. Retrace the
route, turn left on to Geyerswörthplatz,
and then left again on to the wooden
footbridge to the parking lot.
7 Vierzehnheiligen
Bavaria; 96231
A worthwhile excursion from
Bamberg, Vierzehnheiligen is best
known for its splendid pilgrimage
church, Basilika Vierzehnheiligen
(open daily), a masterpiece of south ern
German Baroque and Rococo styles.
Designed by the Franconian archi-
tect Balthasar Neumann, it was built
between 1743 and 1772 at the site
where a shepherd had a vision of a
crying child accompanied by the
Holy Helpers – the Vierzehnheiligen- or 14 saints of intercession of the
church’s name.
ª Return to Bamberg and take
Unterer Kaulberg and Würzburger
Strasse. Follow the yellow signs for
Würzburg to reach the B22 and
then signs to Pommersfelden and
Schloss Weissenstein.
ª Leave the town of Bamberg
along the B4/Hallstädter Strasse.
At Breitengüssbach, follow signs
to Bad Staffelstein via Zapfendorf
and Ebensfeld to Grundfeld. At
Grundfeld, follow the road sign s to
Vierzehnheiligen.