Back Roads Germany (Dk Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

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7 Beilngries

Bavaria; 92339

Children and adults alike will be

charmed by the magical old toys

and dolls at Beilngries’s Spielzeug

and Figuren Museum (Apr–Oct: open

Mon–Sat pm & Sun; Nov–Mar: open

Wed, Sat & Sun pm). Take a stroll around

the picturesque Innerer Graben street

in the old town, which reveals the

toy-town dimensions of the medieval

fortifications, complete with nine of

the original twelve 15th-cen tury

towers. The town also has a number

of charming old inns, making it a

good base for exploring this part of

the Altmühl Valley.

ª Take the Kelheimer Strasse/B299,

then turn left following signs for

Dietfurt/Kelheim. Continue beyond

Dietfurt along the the north bank of the

Main-Donau canal to Prunn. At Prunn,

turn left to get on to a side road, which

ascends to the castle parking lot.

6 Pappenheim
Bavaria; 91788
With its picturesque setting and
historic architecture, Pappenheim
is one of the most attractive small
towns in the region. Impressive
18th- and 19th-century houses line
the main street, Deisingerstrasse,
where the merchant’s house at
No. 16 has an inscription giving
the date of its con struction as the

year 5608, accord ing to the Jewish
calendar. In the Middle Ages,
Pappenheim was the seat of the
Holy Roman Empire’s field marshal,
but today there is nothing warlike
about this sleepy, ruritanian town.
It is dominated by a romantic ruined
castle (open daily) that hosts one
of the region’s most atmospheric
Christmas markets. Pappenheim
also boasts two stately piles – the
festive-looking Renaissance Altes
Schloss, or old palace, and the
Neo-Classical new palace, or Neues
Schloss, built between 1819 and

1820 by Bavarian court architect,
Leo von Klenze.
ª Return to Eichstätt via Solnhofen,
and enter the town on the B13. Turn
left at the roundabout following
signs for Kinding and Beilngries.

Left Tall Romanesque tower, a remnant of

Beilngries’s medieval fortifications Below

left Willibaldsburg, perched on a hill above

Eichstätt Below right Tomb of St. Willibald

at the Willibaldsburg in Eichstätt

DRIVE 17: Jurassic Crags and Feudal Fiefdoms

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40

EAT AND DRINK

EICHSTÄTT

Gasthof Krone inexpensive

Altmühl Valley lamb is the speciality

of this snug, welcoming Gasthof (inn)

opposite Eichstätt’s cathedral. The

emphasis here is on local and

seasonal produce.

Domplatz 3, 85072; 08421 44 06;

http://www.krone-eichstaett.de; closed Wed;

beer garden in summer

BEILNGRIES

Der Millipp moderate

Regional produce dominates the

menu of this historic old guesthouse

and butcher’s shop in the old town of

Beilngries. The setting is simple but

elegant, with pretty, rustic furniture,

wood, and pale colors. In summer,

there is also a beer garden.

Hauptstrasse 9, 92339; 08461 12 03;

http://www.der.millipp.de

Romans and Bavarians

The Limes – the frontier between

the Roman Empire and the

Germanic tribes – passed through

the Altmühl region. A museum

(Apr–Oct: open daily; Nov–Mar: open

Sat & Sun) at Kipfenberg Castle,

between Eichstätt and Beilngries,

tells both sides of the story.

SHOPPING IN EICHSTÄTT

Eichstätt has plenty of shops with

fine handicrafts. At Goldschmiede

Berger (Marktplatz 9, 85072; 08421

84 38), visitors can shop for exquisite

gold jewelery. Also stop at Eichstätter

Seifenstuberl (Westenstrasse 25,

85072; 0160 962 517 32), a famous

soap shop here. Huthaus Wolfl

(Marktplatz 12, 85072; 08421 16 20)

sells a wide range of hats.