Back Roads Germany (Dk Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

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8 Burg Prunn

Bavaria; 93339

Its gravity-defying site atop a crag

makes the medieval castle of Prunn

(winter: closed Mon) perhaps the most

photogenic of the Altmühltal’s for-

tresses. In the Middle Ages, under

the Frauenberg knights of Haag, it

was an important cultural center;

frag ments of frescoes survive from

this period. Later, the castle passed to

the Jesuits, who were responsible

for the rich stuccowork in its chapel.

The views from the castle, up the

Altmühl Valley along the Main-Donau

canal, are spec tacular. Opposite the

castle gates is a restau rant and café,

the Burgschenke Schloss Prunn,

serving snacks and cakes as well

as full meals.

ª From the parking lot, return to

Prunn village, turn left and then con-

tinue to Kelheim. At Kelheim turn right

over the bridge along Alleestrasse

toward the town center. Turn right

again up Hienheimer Strasse to reach

the Befreiungshalle, which is marked.

9 Befreiungshalle

Bavaria; 93309

High above the modest town of

Kelheim lies the vast Neo-Classical

Befreiungshalle, or Liberation Hall

(open daily), which guards the

entrance to the Donaudurchbruch

gorge. It was commissioned by the

Bavarian King Ludwig I to commemo-

rate vic tory over Napoleon’s armies

in the wars of 1813–15. The circular,

domed interior has 34 winged angels

of victory. Stairs lead to a view ing plat-

form that has superb views over

Kelheim and the gorge. Next, take a

tour of the famous Schneider Weisse

brewery in Kelheim (09441 70 50; http://www.

schneider-weisse.de) followed by a boat

cruise (May–Oct: open daily; http://www.

schiffahrt-kelheim.de) through the

gorge to Kloster Weltenburg.

ª Return to Kelheim, turn right along

Alleestrasse and right again at the fork

to reach the bridge across the Danube;

on the south side, take the road to

Weltenburg. Park in the river side lot or

in Kelheim and take the boat.

WHERE TO STAY

AROUND BEFREIUNGSHALLE

Weisses Lamm inexpensive

A traditional small town inn next to

one of Kelheim’s town gates, the

Weisses Lamm has comfortable rooms.

Its welcoming restaurant serves good

regional dishes and Weltenburg beer.

Ludwigstrasse 12, 93309 Kelheim (east

of Befreiungshalle); 09441 200 90;

http://www.weisses-lamm-kelheim.de

LANDSHUT

Goldene Sonne moderate

This smart and comfortable family-

run hotel, housed in a gabled house

with beams and attics, has views over

the old town and the Burg Trausnitz.

The hotel’s restaurant serves Bavarian

and Italian cuisine.

Neustadt 530, 84028; 0871 925 30;

http://www.goldenesonne.de

Right Gabled burghers’ houses in

the center of Landshut Below left Paintings

on a shop’s façade in Landshut Below right

View of the Danube and the Befreiungshalle

BACK ROADS GERMANY

DANUBE BOAT CRUISES

Several boat cruises through the

Donaudurchburch between Kelheim

and Kloster Weltenburg are available

daily from late March to the end of

October. During the peak season, from

late April to mid-October, there is at

least one boat every 45 minutes in both

directions, with greater frequency on

weekends. http://www.schiffahrt-kelheim.de

Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150