Back Roads Germany (Dk Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

196

6 Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Bavaria; 91541

Without the catastrophe of the Thirty Years’ War (1618–48),

Rothenburg ob der Tauber might have been very different, for the loss

of population and vitality that followed the conflict helped preserve

its medieval and Renaissance townscape. Once a Free City of the

Holy Roman Empire, Rothenburg is now no more than a minor

country town, but its exceptional architectural heritage and scenic

position above the lovely Tauber Valley ensure that this perfect little

time capsule is one of Germany’s most beloved attractions.

A two-hour walking tour

Park outside the old town, Altstadt,

on Bezoldweg and head to the

Klingentor 1 , one of several lofty

gates that punctuate Rothenburg’s

well-preserved medieval defenses.

Built around 1400, the

Klingentor also served as

a water tower. Within

the bastion is the late

15th-century fortified

church of St. Wolfgang,

built into the town walls.

Continue into the

Altstadt, heading south

along Klingengasse, with

the Gothic bulk of the Lutheran

parish church of St. Jakobs Kirche 2

(open daily) ahead. The interior is

worth visit ing for the Heilig Blut Altar,

or holy blood altar, by the Würzburg-

based master-sculp tor Tilman

Riemenschneider. The altar’s detailed

portrayal of the Last Supper ranks as

one of Riemenschneider’s finest

wood carvings. Leave the church and

turn left along Kirchplatz, to carry on

VISITING ROTHENBURG OB

DER TAUBER

Parking

There are paid parking lots at the

northern and southern ends of the

old town, outside the town walls.

Tourist Information

Marktplatz 2, 91541; 09861 40 48 00;

http://www.rothenburg.de

Above Galgentor, an old execution place,

Rothenburg ob der Tauber

to the 12th-century Weisser Turm 3.

Part of the original inner town wall,

the “White Tower” is the highest point

in the Altstadt. Next to it, the half-

tim bered Judentanzhaus, or Jewish

dance hall, is a reminder of the town’s

importance as a center

of Jewish culture in the

Middle Ages. The street

leading east from Weisser

Turm is known as

Galgengasse, or Gallows’

Lane, as it once led to

the Galgentor, the town’s

gallows. Turn right down

Pfarrgasse, then left into

Rödergasse, looking right to admire

the pictur esque huddle of buildings

around the Markusturm and

Röder bogen, a town gate and former

prison built around 1200. Walk to the

end of Rödergasse to the Röderturm

4 (Mar–Nov & Christmas Market: open

daily), the only one of the town gates

that can be climbed for views over

the town. It contains an exhibition

on the bomb ing of Rothenburg

BACK ROADS GERMANY

Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150

WHERE TO STAY

ROTHENBURG OB DER TAUBER

Gasthof Goldener Greifen

inexpensive–moderate

This family-run inn provides simple

but charming accommodation.

Rooms are well equipped.

Obere Schmiedgasse 5, 91541; 09861 22

81; http://www.gasthof-greifen-rothenburg.de

Burg Hotel moderate–expensive

A delightful hotel with lovely views

over the Tauber Valley. There are 15

individually decorated rooms and

suites, with en suite bathrooms.

Klostergasse 1–3, 91541; 09861 948 90;

http://www.burghotel.eu

Eisenhut moderate–expensive

Located in the heart of the Altstadt, this

old hotel occupies four 16th-century

patrician houses. Some of its 78 indivi-

dually styled rooms have four poster

beds. All have satellite TV, wireless

Internet, and en suite bath or shower.

Herrngasse 3–7, 91541; 09861 70 50;

http://www.eisenhut.com

SCHILLINGSFÜRST

Die Post moderate

The Die Post has superb views over

the valley. The in-house distillery pro-

duces Obstwasser, the fruity schnapps

of the region.

Rothenburger Strasse 1, 91583; 09868

95 00; http://www.flairhotel-diepost.de

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the Rathaus

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