Back Roads Germany (Dk Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

230

5 Ulm

Baden-Württemberg; 89073

Lying on the Danube river, Ulm grew prosperous in the Middle Ages.

Over time, corruption, wars, and epidemics undermined the city’s

wealth. In 1944, its glorious historic core was destroyed during bomb-

ing raids. Fortunately, its giant Münster came out relatively unscathed.

Today, a great deal of the city has been replaced by modern buildings.

A two-hour walking tour

Turn left out of the parking lot,

Parkhaus Sedelhof, right down

Wengengasse, and left down

Hirschstrasse to reach the vast sweep

of Münsterplatz 1 , which gives Ulm

its focal point. The dimensions of the

square are matched by the gigantic

Gothic Münster (open daily), which

was begun in 1377. Designed for a

standing congregation of

20,000, its plans included the

world’s tallest spire. How ever,

it wasn’t until 1890 that the

spire reached its full height

of 530 ft (161 m). The climb

up its 768 steps offers fine

views of the Black Forest and,

on clearer days, the Alps.

Inside, the eye is drawn

upward by the 138-ft (42-m)

high nave and the pulpit.

The elegant 85-ft (26-m) tabernacle

is eye-catching, as is the vast 1471

fresco that covers the chancel arch.

Turning left out of the Münster,

cross Neue Strasse and turn right

along Sattlergasse to arrive at Weinhof

Square. The Schwörhaus 2 , or oath

house, is where Ulm residents gather

on Schwörmontag in the annual

tradition of hearing their mayor

pledge the 1397 city oath.

Back on Sattlergasse, a left turn leads

to Weinberghof and down to the start

of Fischergasse and the heart of the

old fisherman's quarter, Fischerviertel

3 , once home to medieval artisans.

Look out for the pretzel carved in the

door frame of a baker at Fischergasse

22, and the symbol of a

boat man at Fischergasse 18.

An alley at the end of

Fischergasse turns left to

the quirky medieval Schiefes

Haus 4 , or crooked house,

which leans precari ously

over a stream. Return to

Fischergasse and turn left

to a small square where

stairs climb onto the 1480

riverside defense wall.

A walk further along reveals

another crooked building: the

14th-century defensive tower of

the Metzgerturm 5. Walking uphill

beneath the Metzgerturm leads

to the marketplace, where the glassy

central library, Zentralbibliothek,

by architect Gottfried Böhm, lies

VISITING ULM

Parking

The multi-story parking lot, Parkhaus

Sedelhof, is one of the most conve nient

lots for visiting the Münster.

Tourist Information

Münsterplatz 50, 89073; 0731 161 28 30;

http://www.tourismus.ulm.de; closed Sun

WHERE TO STAY

ULM

Münster Hotel inexpensive

The Münster Hotel provides en suite

rooms with pretty views of the Münster.

Münsterplatz 14, 89073; 0731 641 62;

http://www.muenster-hotel.de

Hotel Bäumle moderate

A renovated building from 1413 with

standard hotel rooms and free Internet.

Kohlgasse 6, 89073; 0731 622 87;

http://www.hotel-baeumle.de

Hotel Schiefes Haus moderate

Famously crooked half-timbered

house from 1443 with floors that are

so uneven that the bed legs have to

be of different lengths.

Schwörhausgasse 6, 89073; 0731 96

79 30; http://www.hotelschiefeshausulm.de

Maritim Hotel expensive

With modern rooms, this is Ulm’s

best hotel. Facilities include bike rental.

Basteistrasse 50, 89073; 0731 92 30;

http://www.maritim.de

AROUND KLOSTER BEURON

Burg Wildenstein inexpensive

This 11th-century stronghold on a

cliff is now a youth hostel. The accom-

mo da tion is ideal for family stays.

Jugendherberge Burg Wildenstein,

88637 Leibertingen (4 miles/7 km east

of Kloster Beuron); 07466 411; http://www.

jugendherberge-burg-wildenstein.de

Above Weekly market in Münsterplatz, Ulm

Flower market,

outside the Münster

BACK ROADS GERMANY

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Where to Stay: inexpensive under €70; moderate €70–€150; expensive over €150

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Donau
Münsterplatz Münster
Schwörhaus
Fischerviertel
Schiefes
Haus Metzgerturm
Rathaus Ulmer
Museum
Münsterplatz
Münsterplatz
Stadtmauer