240
Above left Vineyard topped by 18th-century
Basilika Birnau Above right Meersburg harbor,
an important ferry port Below Lakeside café in
the town of Meersburg6 Basilika Birnau
Uhldingen-Mühlhofen; 88690
The Rococco Basilika Birnau (open
Wed & Sun) was built between 1747–
50 by a celebrity cast of desig ners,
including architect Peter Thumb,
sculp tor Josef Anton Feuchtmayer,
who crafted the altar, and fresco
painter Gottfried Bernhard Göz. To
the right of the main altar is a side
altar dedicated to St. Bernard of
Clairvaux, whose words were said to
be sweet as honey, as depicted by
the statue of a cherub who sucks a
finger he has dipped in a beehive.
ª Return to Birnau and then
take the B31 to Friedrichshafen.4 Meersburg
Baden-Württemberg; 88709
Nestled between vineyards and with
an atmospheric castle loom ing over
its half-timbered pedestrian center,
Meersburg is fairy-tale Germany
come to life. From its main street,
Unterstadstrasse, which runs parallel
to the lakefront, Steigstrasse leads to
the gates of the austere Altes Schloss
(open daily). With foundations laid by
Merovingian King Dagobert I in AD
628, this is Germany’s oldest castle.
The Prince-Bishops of Konstanz,
who used it as a summer residenceBACK ROADS GERMANY
Annette von Droste-Hülshoff
(1797–1848)
Perhaps the greatest-ever German
female poet, Annette von Droste-
Hülshoff spent her later years in
the Altes Schloss in Meersburg. The
dank castle was the perfect muse
for her tortured Romantic verses,
but it was probably the cause of
her death too, for she died of
pneumonia here in 1848. Her flowery
Biedermeier quarters have been
well preserved and remain intact.WHERE TO STAYMEERSBURG
Gasthof zum Bären moderate
A romantic 13th-century inn, with
small rooms, but a perfect location in
the heart of the old town.
Marktplatz 11, 88709; 07532 432 20;
http://www.baeren-meersburg.deFRIEDRICHSHAFEN
Gasthof Rebstock inexpensive
Located a short walk northwest of the
center, this family-run guesthouse has
clean and comfortable rooms. It has a
beer garden and bike rentals.
Werastrasse 35, 88045; 07541 950 16
40; http://www.gasthof-rebstock-fn.de
Buchhorner Hof moderate
This traditional hotel provides bright
rooms with Bodensee views and
modern facilities.
Friedrichstrasse 33, 88045; 07541 20
50; http://www.buchhorn.de
Hotel Maier moderate
The elegant Hotel Maier is 3 miles
(5 km) west of central Friedrichshafen.
Rooms are of the bold boutique
variety and have a satellite TV
and other facilities.
Poststrasse 1–3, 88048; 07541 40 40;
http://www.hotel-maier.deLINDAU ISLAND
Bayerischer Hof expensive
This luxury hotel in a Neo-Classical
building has a prime position on the
lakefront beside the harbor. Its
spacious rooms are decorated with
19th-century style furnishings. The
hotel has fitness and spa facilities,
which include a pool and a sauna.
Seepromenade, 88131; 08382 91 50;
http://www.bayerischerhof-lindau.deWhere to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €1505 The Pfahlbauten Museum
Baden-Württemberg; 88690
A reconstructed prehistoric hamlet,
the Pfahlbauten Museum (closed Dec–
Feb) features open-air recreations of
Stone and Iron Age dwellings based
on archaeological remains found
here. These suggest that structures
were built by driving huge stakes
into the ground. The interiors provide
a glimpse of what life was like here
between 4000 and 850 BC.
ª Turn right out of the parking lot
towards Oberuhldingen and turn left
for Birnau; park in Basilika's parking lot.from 1268, were inspired to build
a cheer ful-looking palace in the
18th cen tury. Baroque architect
Balthasar Neumann built the pastel-
pink Neues Schloss, but this could
only be enjoyed until seculariza tion
in 1802. It provides great views of
the Bodensee.
ª Turn left on to B31/Unteruhildingen,
then on to Meersburger Strasse. In
Unteruhildingen, turn right on to park-
ing lot. Follow signs to the museum.