Back Roads Germany (Dk Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

35

Left Half-timbered houses along the Alter

Hafen, Stade Below Moorlands covered in

heather, Lüneburger Heide

EAT AND DRINK

LÜNEBURG

Elrado-House moderate

Situated in the heart of Lüneburg,

off the market square, this homey

steakhouse is the ideal place at which

to dine after a walking tour. Enjoy

good food in a friendly, rustic setting.

Am Markt 4, 21335; 04131 39 04 03;

http://www.elrado-house.de

Mama Rosa moderate

This Italian restaurant is both a trattoria

and a gourmet food-and-wine store.

Visitors can enjoy a light breakfast in

the morning, lunch in the sun and

drink a cappuccino in the afternoon,

or a glass of wine in the evening with

Italian antipasto and a selection of

homemade pasta dishes.

Bei der Abtsmühle 1, 21335; 04131 30

83 07; http://www.mama-rosa-lueneburg.de

Zum Heidkrug moderate

The menu at this well-known gourmet

restaurant, changes according to the

season and the creative ideas of its

Michelin-starred chef.

Am Berge 5, 21335; 04131 241 60; http://www.

zum-heidkrug.de; closed Sun & Mon

ALTES LAND

Restaurant Herbstprinz moderate

Hearty regional and refined

Mediterranean cuisine is served at

this restaurant located in Jork. It is also

known for its extensive wine collection.

Osterjork 76, 21635 Jork; 04162 90

89 71; http://www.herbstprinz.de

STADE

Knechthausen moderate

Savor homemade pasta, antipasto,

meat and fish dishes and delightful

desserts in the Knechthausen’s peaceful

ambience. It has a superb wine

selection, too.

Bungenstr 20–22, 21682; 04141 453 00;

http://www.knechthausen.de; closed Sun

Barbarossa expensive

This cozy restaurant in an old

townhouse is located next to the

harbor, so the seafood, such as

freshly harvested oysters from

Sylt Island, is particularly good. The

cuisine is excellent, as are the wines.

Salzstrasse 25, 21682; 04141 28 84;

http://www.barbarossa-stade.de; closed Sun

DRIVE 1: Dramatic North Sea Coast

Baroque portal,

Rathaus, Stade

3 Altes Land
Hamburg; 21635
The flat floodplains of the
Altes Land along the banks of
the lower Elbe teem with cherry
and apple orchards. The area is
particularly lovely between April
and May when the trees are in
bloom and the whole country side
turns into an ocean of white and
pink. In the midst of these natural

surround ings, charming red-brick
houses with thatched
roofs and deco rated
gables await the visitor.
There are a number of
villages to be discov ered,
such as Neuenfelde,
Borstel, Steinkirchen,
Hollern, and Jork, with
many Baroque churches
that are worth visiting.
The unofficial capital
of the Altes Land, Jork
offers some delightful

restau rants. Neuenfelde
attracts visitors with
its pretty rose gardens;
another draw is the
hist oric windmill of
Hollern-Twielenfleth.

4 Stade

Lower Saxony; 21680

A medieval Hanseatic town located

to the west of Hamburg, Stade has

retained most of its characteristic half-

timbered buildings, the most attractive

of which can be found along the old

harbor, Alter Hafen. Located in a gra-

nary built during the time of the

Swedish occupation in the 17th

cen tury, Schwedenspeicher -

Museum (closed Mon) houses

exhibits on the history of the town.

Nearby, a building at Am

Wasser West 7 displays the

Kaufmann Collection (closed

Mon), com prising works of

artists from Worpswede

(see p38). Other attrac tions

are the Bürgermeister-

Hintze-Haus at Am Wasser

West 23 and the Rathaus,

both of which date from

the 17th century. Stade

also has its share of grand

churches, such as the 14th-

century Gothic St. Wilhadi (closed Sun)

and the 17th-century St. Cosmas und

Damiani (closed Sun).

ª Take the B74 and continue past

Elm. Turn right on to the B71 to

Bremervörde, passing Heerstedt to

reach the A27. Cross the A27 to get on

to Weserstrasse to reach Bremen’s

deep-water harbor, Bremerhaven.

scenery and quaint houses set
among trees is a reminder of
its bucolic past. Not far from
here is the Wilseder Berg, the
highest point of the moraine
region, which offers a panoramic
view of the countryside.
ª From Undeloh, head to
Handeloh. Continue on
Handeloher Strasse to Welle.
Turn right on to the B3 and
cross the A1. Continue on this
road, then turn left on to the

B73 and pass Neukloster
Hedendorf. Turn right on
Jorker Strasse to Jork.

ª From Jork, continue to Borstel,

then turn left to Grunendeich. Follow

Mittelnkirchen to Steinkirchen and

continue to Hollern. Follow the river

and take Altländer Strasse to Stade.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40