Back Roads Germany (Dk Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

38

Above left Village cottage with a thatched

roof, Elisabethfehn Above right Verden an der

Aller town center Below Norderney, one of the

many East Frisian Islands

BACK ROADS GERMANY

7 Worpswede

Lower Saxony; 27726

Situated northeast of Bremen,

the small village of Worpswede

is a must-see for art lovers. A num-

ber of famous painters, notably

Fritz Mackensen, Otto Modersohn,

Hans am Ende, Fritz Overbeck, and

Heinrich Vogeler, lived here from

1889 until the end of World War II.

The greatest of them all was perhaps

Paula Modersohn-Becker, one of the

most important exponents of early

Expressionism. The Grosse Kunstschau

and the Worpsweder Kunsthalle

(closed Mon), where the work of the

found ing members of the colony is

displayed, are worth a visit. Most of

the paintings on display highlight the

scenic beauty of northern Germany,

showing moorland, birch trees, and

marshlands under wide open skies.

Visiting poets such as Bohemian-

Austrian Rainer Maria Rilke helped

establish the legendary reputation

of this hamlet. Even today, many

painters live in Worpswede, and the

village is proud of its cultural scene.

9 Verden an der Aller

Lower Saxony; 27238

The town of Verden an der Aller is

known for its attractive churches,

such as the Johanniskirche, the

Andreaskirche, and the Lutheran

cathedral, the Dom, all of which

adorn the town center. The cathe-

dral’s hall features a multi-sided

presbytery and a passageway

dating from between 1268 and

1311. The town’s horseback riding
      and racing tradition is honored in the
      Deutsches Pferdemuseum (closed
      Mon), which features a vast collec tion
      of equestrian artifacts. North of the
      cathedral, the Domherrenhaus

WHERE TO STAY IN EAST FRISIA

AND THE EAST FRISIAN ISLANDS

Haus Norderney moderate

A modern B&B, offering 10 individually

decorated rooms.

Janusstrasse 6, 26548 Norderney; 04932

22 88; http://www.hotel-haus-norderney.de

Ostfriesenhof moderate

This first-class hotel has wonderful

views of the East Frisian landscape.

Groninger Strasse 109, 26789 Leer;

0491 609 10; http://www.ostfriesen-hof.de

Villa im Park moderate

This four-star hotel in a villa offers

single or double rooms, 8 suites, and 9

apartments, all with extra-long beds.

Dorfplatz 16, 26486 Wangerooge; 04469

870 80; http://www.vip-wangerooge.de

8 Fischerhude

Lower Saxony; 27726

Another attraction for art lovers is

nearby Fischerhude, which nestles in

the Wümme river lowlands, sur-

rounded by waterways and drain age

canals that frame the captivating

mead ows and fertile fields. With its

idyllic farmhouses, some of which are

centuries old, this village leaves the

visitor with a distinct impression of the

region’s lifestyle as it was hundreds of

years ago. At the end of the 19th

cen tury, Fischerhude also became an

important cultural colony, attracting

artists such as Heinrich Breling, the

landscape painter Otto Modersohn,

the sculptor Clara Rilke-Westhoff, and

the author Diedrich Speckmann.

ª Leave Fischerhude following signs

to Sagehorn and then on to Oyten. Take

the A1 towards Bremen, then the A27

southeastwards, and then Hamburger

Strasse to Verden an der Aller.

ª Take the Kirchdamm to Grasberg

and then the Speckmannstasse

to Fischerhude.

CYCLING IN WORPSWEDE

Rent a bike (Fahrradladen

Worpswede; http://www.fahrradeyl.de)

and enjoy exploring the quaint

village of Worpswede.

Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150