Back Roads Germany (Dk Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

45

Above left Tranquil shore of the island

of Fehmarn Above right Cycling on a

narrow road in Fehmarn

DRIVE 2: Wonders of Schleswig-Holstein

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EAT AND DRINK

RATZEBURG

Der Seehof moderate

This charming family-owned restaurant

and hotel offers international and

regional dishes.

Lüneburger Damm 1–3, 23909; 04541

86 01 01; http://www.der-seehof.de

LÜBECK

Schiffergesellschaft moderate

Located in a beautiful historic building,

this popular rest aurant serves great

beer and seafood. Book in advance.

Breitestrasse 2, 23552; 0451 767 76;

http://www.schiffergesellschaft.com

Wullenwever expensive

One of the best restaurants in

town, the Wullenwever serves local

cuisine, with Mediterranean and

maritime influences.

Beckergrube 71, 23552; 0451 70 43 33;

http://www.wullenwever.de; closed Sun & Mon

FEHMARN

Aalkate Lemkenhafen moderate

Housed in a historic building from

the 18th century, this restaurant is

known for its eel specialities. These

and other fish are smoked according

to old local recipes and best enjoyed

with a North German draft beer.

Königstrasse 20, 23769; 04372 532;

http://www.aalkate-original-fehmarn.de

Restaurant Altes Zollhaus moderate

A simple restaurant serving typical

regional seafood dishes, often

featuring freshly caught fish.

Westermarkelsdof 11, 23769; 04372

991 635; http://www.zollhaus-fehmarn.de;

closed Sun & Mon

5 Fehmarn

Schleswig-Holstein; 23769

This Baltic Coast island is renowned for

its serene beaches, pristine land scape,

and some 2,200 hours of sun per year.

The best way to explore Fehmarn is on

foot or a bike. Visitors

can also relax at one of

several well ness spas

(www.inselwellness-

fehmarn.de) or play golf

on one of the prettiest

golf courses in

Germany. The big gest

village is Burg auf

Fehmarn, home to the

St. Nikolai Kirche, or

St. Nikolai church. To

the south west of the

island stands the

121-ft (37-m) tall light-

house Flügge, which

offers pano ramic

views of the island.

ª Take the B207 then

the A1 to Oldenburg.

Turn on to the B202

to Lütjenburg, then

the B430 to the

town of Plön, in

Holsteinische Schweiz.

daily), once the home of Thomas
Mann. It now houses a museum
dedi cated to the Mann fam ily. Next,
turn right on to Breite Strasse to the
13th-century Rathaus 6 , Germany’s
most famous brick town hall. Return
along Breite Strasse to the 15th-cen-
tury Jakobikirche 7 , a Baroque
church on the right. Turn right into
Koberg, then left into Grosse
Burgstrasse to the Burgtor 8 , an
ancient gate that bears testimony

to the town’s historic forti fi cations.
Return to Grosse Burgstrasse to the
Heiligen-Geist-Hospital 9 , a Gothic
brick building, notorious for its spiky
towers. Continue into Konigsstrasse,
turn left on to Mühlenstrasse, then
right on to Dankwartsgrube, and left
again into Pferdemarkt for the Herz-
Jesu-Kirche 0 , on the right. This 19th-
cen tury church houses a memorial to
four clergymen who were executed
dur ing the Third Reich for resisting the
Nazi regime. Across the parade square

stands the Dom (^) q (open daily), built
in the 12th and 13th centuries.
High lights include a triumphal cross
sculp ted from an oak tree. Get on to
St. Annen-Strasse to visit Kunsthalle
St.-Annen w, or St. Anne’s Museum
(open daily), which is housed in an
Augustinian con vent. Return to
Kohlmarkt, turning left on Holsten-
strasse for the parking lot.
Thomas Mann
Thomas Mann, one of Germany’s
most influential writers, was
awarded the Nobel Prize for lit era ture
for his works Buddenbrooks and Der
Zauberberg (The Magic Mountain)
in 1929. An anti-fascist, Mann
emigrated to Switzer land in 1933
and to the US in 1939. Dis owned
by his country, he became the
leading voice of Exilliteratur, the
exiled German lit era ture that was
outlawed by the Nazi regime.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40
ª Take the A1 to Ratekau and then
past Neustadt to take the B501 to
Heiligenhafen. Then turn on to the
B207 to Fehmarn.
BIKING IN FEHMARN
Bikes can be rented at Conny’s
(Breite Strasse 46; 04371 13 03;
http://www.fehmarn-fahrrad.de)..) Visitors can
also get maps at the tourist office
(Sudstrand-Promenade 1;
http://www.fehmarn.de)..)
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Buddenbrookhaus
Schabbelhaus
Kunsthalle
St.-Annen
Dom
Holstentor
Marienkirche
Rathaus
Petrikirche
Herz-Jesu-
Kirche
Jakobikirche
Burgtor
Heiligen-
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