Back Roads Germany (Dk Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

DRIVE 3: The Baltic Coast 55

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40

EAT AND DRINK IN RÜGEN

Zum goldenen Anker inexpensive

Housed in a pretty, historic inn,

this restaurant in Kap Arkona

serves seasonal Baltic fish.

Vitt 2, 18556; 038391 121 34;

http://www.gasthof-vitt.de

Strandhalle Binz moderate

Well known for Mecklenburg dishes

as interpreted by gourmet chef Toni

Münsterteicher, this restaurant is

housed in a vintage seaside hall in Binz

and has an eclectic decor.

Strandpromenade 5, 18609; 038393

315 64; http://www.strandhalle-binz.de

Strolling the Stubbenkammer

The Königsstuhl is the most

accessible of the Stubbenkammer

cliffs that line Rügen’s east coast.

Marked by a blue stripe, the

Hochuferweg path is a beautiful

clifftop trail that leads south to

Sassnitz. This 5-mile (8-km) long path,

with beech woods on one side and

a shifting emerald-jade sea on the

other, passes the Kollicker Ort navi-

gation light before proceed ing

through Ernst, Moritz, Arndt, Sicht,

and the Wissower Klinken view-

points. Another hour’s walk leads to

Sassnitz, from where there are taxis

or buses back to Königsstuhl.

better view, walk 547 yards (500 m)
south to the Victoriasicht view point
or to the beach via steep steps.
ª Continue down the road to rejoin
B96 then head toward Altenkirchen.
Turn right to reach the parking lot at
Putgarten. Tourist trains leave every
10 mins for Kap Arkona and Vitt,
otherwise it is a 1 mile (2 km) walk.

4 Kap Arkona

Two lighthouses (open daily), the

smaller by the 19th-century Prussian

architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel,

afford a view over the rapefields

that cover the cliffs of Kap Arkona,

the wind-blown tip of Rügen. A

1-mile (2-km) path around the

cape returns to the parking lot via

the earth works of the Jaromarsburg

(open daily), a for tified temple of

the Slavic tribes who occupied

Rügen until the 12th century.

Continue on the path to Vitt, an

idyllic ancient fishing hamlet cupped

in a dell behind the beach, where

Slavic runes number some houses.

Do not miss the folk mural in the

village’s 19th-cen tury chapel.

ª Return to Altenkirchen, then go to

Wiek, and take the car ferry, Wittower

Fähre. Drive to Gingst, then join the

B96 at Samtens, and past Stralsund,

join the B105 to Greifswald. Parking

is available at the Zentrum, by the

harbor and at the Markt.

Above left Steam train on the narrow-gauge

Rasender Roland Above right Beautiful

white sand beach at Binz Below White

chalk cliff at Kap Arkona, Rügen