DRIVE 8: Palaces and Castles of Münsterland 91
Above left Reconstructed Roman ruin in
the Archäologischer Park, Xanten Above
right Moated entrance to Schloss RaesfeldVISITING XANTENParking
The town center has limited parking
space but there is ample parking at
the Archäologischer Park.
Tourist Information
Kurfürstenstrasse 9, 46509; 02801 983
00; http://www.xanten.de; open dailyWHERE TO STAYXANTEN
Van Bebber moderate
Housed in a Baroque townhouse,
this friendly family hotel has spacious
rooms with antique-style furnishings,
as well as an excellent restaurant that
specializes in game.
Klever Strasse 12, 46509; 02801 66 23;
http://www.hotelvanbebber.deAROUND SCHLOSS RAESFELD
Landhaus Keller moderate
Overlooking meadows and the
Schloss, this hotel has relaxed
country decor, spa facilities, and
a good restaurant.
Weseler Strasse 71, 46348 Raesfeld
(northeast of the Schloss); 02685 608
50; http://www.landhaus-keller.deChateaux of Münsterland
Without a defensive hill anywhere
on the plains of Münsterland, feudal
rulers in the Middle Ages turned
to water for protection. Broad
moats were dug to encircle their
Wasserschlösschen. More powerful
can nons and peace rendered such
defen ses obsolete in the 17th cen-
tury, so aristocrats recre ated their
strong holds as chateaux-style status
sym bols. Around 100 of these remain
within a 50-mile (100-km) radius of
Münster, of which 40 are still owned
by the original noble families.1 Kalkar
North Rhine-Westphalia; 47546
Cafés and shops occupy the
patricians’ houses on Kalkar’s cob bled
Marktplatz, dominated by the 15th-
cen tury Rathaus. The square is a
fine place to sit and soak up the
atmosphere of this historic town.
Highlights include St. Nikolaikirche
(open daily), whose stunningly intri-
cate altars date from Kalkar’s golden
age in the 15th and 16th centuries;
the high altar was created by three
craftsmen over 12 years.
ª Leave the town on Altkakaren
Strasse to the left of the church.
Turn left at the roundabout on to
the B57 toward Xanten. Parking
is available in the Archäologischer
Park and in Xanten’s Ostwall
and Markt.
3 Schloss Raesfeld
North Rhine-Westphalia; 46348
The 17th-century moated palace
of Count Alexander II von Velen,
Schloss Raesfeld, was described as a
“trumpet blast in stone”, and is still an
impressive edifice with a fine Baroque
altar in its chapel. A river side walk
through the garden behind the
palace leads to a ruined watermill.
ª Drive through Raesfeld and take the
B224 at the roundabout on the outskirts
of the town. Turn left at Erle to reach
Lembeck. Follow signs to the Schloss.4 Schloss Lembeck
North Rhine-Westphalia; 46286
The formidable gatehouse of the
moated Schloss Lembeck (Mar–Nov:
open daily), belies the Baroque ele-
gance inside. The Westphalian court
architect Johann Conrad Schlaun
intro duced Italianate style to the castle
in the 17th century, when he rede-
signed the Festsaal, or Celebration
Hall. Visit the rhododendron park.
ª Turn right from the entrance of
the castle and left at T-junction on to
the B58. Drive through Haltern, turn left
in Lüdinghausen at the white sign for
“Burgen” and park at the castle.2 Xanten
North Rhine-Westphalia; 46509
Located by the mighty Rhine river,
Xanten was once a Roman metrop-
olis known as Colonia Ulpia Traiana.
Today’s walled town was estab lished
around a memorial church, Dom
St. Victor. Built on top of the grave
of the martyr St. Victor, the church
was first named Ad Sanctos (by the
saints), which was soon shortened
to Xanten.
On the outskirts of the town is
the Archäologischer Park (open daily),
which, with its recon structed Roman
public build ings, hints at the scale
of this 1st-century port, which
housed 10,000 people. A museum
by the baths has displays on the
town’s Roman past.
ª Continue on the B57 and turn
left toward Wesel. Follow the B58
through Wesel to turn left on to the
B70 to Raesfeld. Park at the Schloss.
EAT AND DRINK IN XANTENCafé de Fries inexpensive
Savory crêpes, waffles, salads, and
snacks are served in this café-cum-
cake shop with a large terrace.
Kurfürstenstrasse 8, 46509; 02801
20 68; http://www.cafe-defries.de
Gotisches Haus moderate
One of Xanten’s oldest inns, this
atmospheric place is spread over
four floors. In summer, the beer
garden in its courtyard is open.
Markt 6, 46509; 02801 70 64 00; http://www.
gotisches-haus-xanten.de; closed MonEat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40