Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

(Tina Meador) #1

113


Gilbert Scott in 1863–9. Here a statue
of William Wilberforce broods on the
evils of slavery. Spanning the Cam is
the Bridge of Sighs, designed by Henry
Hutchinson in 1827. Turn right out of St
John’s and enter Trinity College 9 ,
founded in 1546 by Henry VIII, through
its Great Gate. The Wren library was
completed in 1695 to designs by the
famous architect. Turn right out of
Trinity to head back to King’s College
0. Visit the chapel, probably the city’s
most spectacular building, to marvel at
the magical architecture of its ceiling.
ª Follow ring road to Trumpington
St, signed M11 south. At Trumpington
turn right to Grantchester. Use pay car
park and continue on foot.


EAT AND DRINK

CAMBRIDGE
Fitzbillies inexpensive
A Cambridge institution established in
1922, this bakery is famed for its Chelsea
buns, “probably the stickiest in the world”.
52 Trumpington St, CB2 1RG; 01223
352 500; http://www.fitzbillies.co.uk; dinner
served Fri & Sat only
The Bun Shop inexpensive
Enjoy tapas-style global cuisine in a pub
as idiosyncratic as its name. You might
try garlic chicken, Merlot-braised chorizo,
Cajun mussels or gorgonzola gnocchi.
1 King Street, CB1 1LH; 01223 366 866;
http://www.thebunshop.com
Cotto moderate
This café, deli, restaurant and gallery
makes much of local organic produce.
Dishes might include smoky celeriac and
hazelnut soup or wood-roasted mackerel.
183 East Road, CB1 1BG; 01223 302
010; http://www.cottocambridge.co.uk;
dinner served Thu–Sat; closed Sun
Midsummer House expensive
Garlanded with rosettes and stars, this
riverside restaurant is recommended for
its professionalism and highly imaginative
cuisine from a fixed-price menu.
Midsummer Common, CB4 1HA; 01223
369 299; http://www.midsummerhouse.co.uk
GRANTCHESTER
The Orchard Tea Garden inexpensive
Tread in the footsteps of Rupert Brooke
and relax over traditional tea or lunch in
this idyllic spot, with its historic wooden
pavilion and glorious orchard setting.
45–7 Mill Way, CB3 1RS; 01223 551
125; http://www.orchard-grantchester.com;
closed over Christmas

2 Grantchester
“Stands the church clock at ten to
three, and is there honey still for tea?”
wrote Rupert Brooke (1887–1915) in
his gentle satire of English life, The Old
Vicarage, Grantchester. It’s a pretty
village with thatched cottages and
historic inns, not yet subsumed by its
larger and more lively academic
neighbour. See the memorial to the
poet Brooke, and the Old Vicarage
that was for a time his home; take a
snap of the clock at ten to three – and
enjoy traditional afternoon tea at the
old Orchard Tea Garden.
ª Return to the A1309 at Trumpington,
turn right, then left to Great Shelford on
A1301. After four roundabouts, take
B184 to Saffron
Walden. Follow
signs for pay
parking or look
for free short-stay
parking in the
town centre.

DRIVE 10: The River Cam and Constable Country


Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

Below Punters seen from The Backs as they
glide past King’s College, Cambridge

Left St John’s College and the romantic Bridge
of Sighs, Cambridge

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