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3 Saffron Walden
Essex; CB10
A gem of a medieval market town,
Saffron Walden sits on the River Cam, in
unspoiled Essex countryside. Dating in
parts from the 12th century, the town
has many half-timbered buildings,
although the Tudor-style town hall. was
built as late as 1761. Opened in 1835,
Saffron Walden Museum (open daily;
http://www.visitsaffronwalden.gov.uk) is one of
Britain’s oldest public museums. It
stands in a meadow, beside the ruins of
12th-century Walden castle and offers
eclectic collections – from Egyptian
sarcophagi and mammoth tusks to
displays about the people and natural
history of the region.
ª From the centre, follow signs on
B1383 to Audley End and car park.5 Thaxted
Essex; CM6
A pleasing, small town which does not
go out of its way to pull in tourists, but
nevertheless boasts ancient, timber-
framed houses and a 14th-century
Guildhall complete with jail (open
to visitors for occasional exhibitions).
There’s also a windmill built in 1804,
almshouses and, on the hilltop, the
magnificent Church of St John the
Baptist. Dating to the 14th century,
the “Cathedral of Essex” is held by some
to be the finest parish church in the
country. The town’s famous residents
have included composer Gustav Holst,
who lived here 1914–25, when writingSuffolk pink
All over Suffolk there are ancient
houses washed in attractive hues
of pink. Although today most are
coloured with conventional paints,
traditionally Suffolk pink distemper
included buttermilk coloured with
pigs’ blood. Using blackthorn or
sloe juice instead was said to
produce a redder shade of paint.4 Audley End
Essex; CB11 4JF
Henry VIII gave Walden Abbey to Sir
Thomas Audley, who transformed it
into a splendid mansion (closed Mon,
Tue; http://www.english-heritage.org.uk). The
third Baron Baybrooke, who came into
the property in 1825, brought in works
by Holbein, Canaletto and many more.
There are 30 rooms to be seen, some
designed by Robert Adam, as well as
parkland designed by landscape
gardener “Capability” Brown, and a
Victorian kitchen garden.
ª Return to Saffron Walden and take
B184 south (clearly signed) to Thaxted.
Park on the street.WHERE TO STAYSAFFRON WALDEN
Saffron Hotel moderate
This classic market-town hotel, dating
back to the 16th century, offers 16
comfortable ensuite rooms in a handy
central location.
8–12 High Street, CB10 1AZ; 01799 522
676; http://www.saffronhotel.co.ukTHAXTED
Swan Hotel moderate
A traditional coaching inn, this hotel
has recently had a major refurbishment
and provides spruce, comfortable
accommodation at very reasonable
prices. Check for special offers.
Bull Ring, CM6 2PL; 01371 830 321;
http://www.swanhotel-thaxted.comBelow Audley End, one of the finest Jacobean
houses in EnglandAbove left Thaxted’s picturesque 19th-century
windmill Above top right The Tudor-style
town hall in the heart of Saffron Walden, built
in 1761 Above right Thatched cottage in
traditional Suffolk pink, ThaxtedBACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150VISITING SUDBURYTourist Information
Town Hall, Market Hill, CO10 1TL;
01787 881 320
River Stour Trust
The Granary, Quay Lane, CO10 2AN;
01787 313 199; http://www.riverstourtrust.org