126
Above Lobster and crab boats at the quayside
Wells-next-the-SeaStiffkey Blues
Local cockles known as “Stewkey
Blues” have been harvested on the
Stiffkey marshes for generations.
Their blue colour comes from their
anaerobic mud habitat. Often used
in fancy restaurant dishes, they are
best from a seafood stall, simply
smothered in vinegar on the beach.open daily; http://www.holkham.co.uk) is a
fabulous Palladian-style country seat
amid a deer park, home to Viscount
and Viscountess Coke (pronounced
“Cook”). It houses a treasury of statues,
Old Masters’ paintings, antiques and
tapestries. The Statue Gallery contains
one of the finest private collections of
classical sculpture, including a statue
of Diana and a bust of Thucydides
from the 4th century BC. A notice on
the piano on the way in, invites able
musicians to sit down and play. The
hall was a setting in the film The
Duchess, starring Keira Knightley as
Georgiana Spencer and Ralph Fiennes
as the Duke of Devonshire.
ª Carry on A149, then left
on B1155. Park on-street.WHERE TO STAYWELLS-NEXT-THE-SEA
Globe Inn
Seven bright and airy ensuite rooms
are available in this refurbished inn. The
breakfast menu includes Cley smoked
haddock with poached egg, and there
are good-value bar snacks all day.
The Buttlands, N23 1EU; 01328 710 206;
http://www.holkham.co.uk/globe
Victoria Hotel moderate–expensive
A historic hotel on the edge of the
Holkham Estate, this has real-ale bars
on the ground floor and an upmarket
restaurant. The 10 ensuite rooms are
beautifully done and some have views
over the marshes. There are also three
glorious self-catering lodges available.
Park Road, NR23 1RG; 01328 711 008;
http://www.holkham.co.uk
BURNHAM MARKET
The Jockey inexpensive–moderate
This pub offers four decent bedrooms
with ensuite shower rooms in the
heart of this lovely village. There are
hearty breakfasts and bar meals that
make use of local ingredients.
Creake Road, PE31 8EN; 01328 738 321;
http://www.thejockeyburnhammarket.co.ukHUNSTANTON
Neptune Inn moderate
There are seven pleasant ensuite
rooms at this handsome 18th-century
coaching inn. The Michelin-starred
restaurant uses mainly Norfolk
ingredients in the restaurant and bar.
85 Old Hunstanton Road, PE36 6HZ;
01485 532 122; http://www.theneptune.co.ukq Burnham Market
Norfolk; NR23 1AB
Away from the coast, enjoy
the fine Georgian cottages
book-ended by two small
churches in this riverside
town, known as “Chelsea on
Sea”. Browse the hat and
dress shops, art gallery,
jewellers, fish shop and
delicatessen, then have a deserved
drink at the handsome Hoste Arms.
ª Head north on the B1355, then turn
left on A149.0 Wells-next-the-Sea
Norfolk; NR23 1AN
A popular resort town, Wells got its
name from the many clear springs in
the area. Today, as a result of silting, it
is more “near” than “next” the sea –
vessels must sail some way up inlets
to berth here, but the
harbour is still a great
attraction. Stroll up to the
grassy Georgian square
known as The Buttlands,
for a drink in either of the
village inns, the Crown
or the Globe, or buy a
picnic from the Wells Deli
and head for the beach.
Travel in style on the tiny,
narrow-gauge, steam or
diesel Wells Harbour
Railway (seasonal service). The
beautiful sands are backed by
expansive dunes and cooling pines.
Just west, neighbouring Holkham
Hall Estate (open spring–summer; parkBACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150Right Creek into the harbour at
Wells-next-the-SeaWells-next-the-Sea
village sign