Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

135

q Blaenavon

Gwent; NP4 9RN

Set on a mountainside in a bleak and

awe-inspiring landscape, Blaenavon

rose to prominence at the start of the

Industrial Revolution and was given

UNESCO World Heritage status in 2000.

One of several heritage attractions on

the site, Blaenavon Ironworks (Apr–

Oct: open daily; Nov–Mar: open Fri–Sun)

was the most advanced ironworks in

the world when it was built in 1787.

The vast infastructure includes mines,

water towers, steam-powered blast

furnaces, casting houses and workers’

cottages. The works fell into decline

with the advent of large-

scale steel making.

Part of the same heritage

site, the Big Pit: National

Coal Museum (open daily) is

where the coal that fired

the furnaces came from. In

this fascinating industrial

museum, ex-miners escort

groups around the mines,

90 m (300 ft) underground

and reveal the harsh lives of

the miners (men, women

and children) who worked in

dark and damp conditions.

chieftains by the Normans in 1175. A

19th-century hunting lodge, on the

site of the keep, houses Abergavenny

Museum (open Mon–Sat; Mar–Oct also

Sun pm), with displays of local social

history. However, the star attraction is

St Mary’s Priory Church. Founded in

1087 as a Benedictine priory, it is one

of the finest churches in Wales. It has a

huge 15th-century carved oak “Jesse”

sculpture – tracing Jesus’ lineage back

to Jesse – which is unique in size and

craftmanship. Also admire the fine

English School Renaissance alabaster

tombs in the Herbert Chapel.

ª Return to A40 east, taking A4143,

then B4246 to Blaenavon. Park on site.

Above St Mary’s Priory Church, Abergavenny,
founded in the 11th century

Above The ruined Norman tower of Tretower

Castle, near Crickhowell

DRIVE 12: Borderlands to Beacons

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

9 Tretower Court and Castle
Crickhowell, Powys; NP8 1RF
These two sets of buildings clearly
illustrate the transition from castles to
houses in the borders, indicating the
advent of a more peaceful time. The
tower, built by Picard c.1100, is one of
a number of motte and bailey castles
built during the Norman advance into
Wales. In the 14th century, the house
became the main dwelling place. It is
a rare intact example of a medieval
manor house with a walled front and
courtyard, like an early Oxford college.
Partly rebuilt in the 15th century by
Sir Roger Vaughan, it has wonderful
timber work and a garden.
ª Continue along the road to return
to the A40 and carry on eastwards to
Abergavenny. Park in the town centre.

EAT AND DRINK

AROUND TRETOWER COURT

AND CASTLE

The Bear Hotel inexpensive–moderate

This atmospheric pub in Crickhowell,

on the A40 outside Tretower, serves

traditional food such as Gloucester Old

Spot sausages, fishcakes and faggots.

High St, Crickhowell, NP8 1BW; 01873

810 408; http://www.bearhotel.co.uk

Nantyffin Cider Mill moderate

This lovely old drovers’ inn, on the

A479 from Tretower to Crickhowell,

offers a high standard of cuisine using

produce from local farms and estates.

Brecon Rd, NP8 1SG; 01873 810 775;

http://www.cidermill.co.uk

AROUND ABERGAVENNY

The Walnut Tree moderate–expensive

This well-known restaurant, just off the

B4521 northeast of Abergavenny, is part-

operated by top chef Shaun Hill. The

food is well-flavoured modern British

and the set lunch is excellent value.

Llanddewi Skirrid, NP7 8AW; 01873 852

797; http://www.thewalnuttreeinn.com

0 Abergavenny
Monmouthshire; NP7 5ND
Set in the Usk Valley with easy access
to the Brecon Beacons, Abergavenny
is superbly located. At its heart is
Abergavenny Castle, a classic motte
and bailey structure from the 11th
century. It saw three centuries of fierce
border fighting and was the scene of
the infamous massacre of Welsh

VISITING BLAENAVON

Blaenavon World Heritage Centre

Church Rd, NP4 9AS; 01495 742 333;

http://www.world-heritage-blaenavon.org.uk

DAY TRIP OPTIONS

Hereford and Abergavenny make

excellent bases for these trips.

Churches, History and Books

Start in Hereford 1 , with its

cathedral, and head to Kilpeck 2 for

its church, then on to Abbey Dore

3 and the spectacular Vale of Ewyas

4 , stopping off at the church and

priory. Drive over Gospel Pass for a

stroll around Hay-on-Wye 5.

Follow the driving instructions, but

return to Hereford on the B4352.

Family Activity Day

Spend the morning touring the

industrial sites at Blaenavon q,

before heading to Tretower Court

and Castle 9 , and on to Llangorse

Lake 6 for a walk and some fishing

or bird-watching. If there’s still time,

take a look around pretty Brecon 7.

Follow the driving instructions from

Abergavenny to Blaenavon and then

follow the A40.