140
Right Aberglasney House set in the famous
gardens, near Llandeilo3 Carreg Cennen Castle
Carmarthenshire; SA19 6UA
Just east of Trapp, on the western
edge of the Brecon Beacons National
Park, Carreg Cennen Castle (open daily)
is a dramatic ruined fortification, set
high on a stunning 99-m (325-ft)
limestone bluff. There is evidence of
prehistoric and Roman activity, but it
was the 11th-century Welsh princes
who first built on the site. Today’s
remains are those of the magnificent
13th-century Norman edifice. Walk up
hill to the castle from the car park.
ª Go back to Ffairfach and straight on
to A476. Turn right on A48, then right on
B4310 to the Botanic Garden (signed).
2 Llandeilo
Carmarthenshire; SA19 8QH
This elegant town is perched on a
bluff overlooking the Tywi, the longest
river to flow entirely within Wales. At
its centre is 13th-century St Teilo’s
Church, rebuilt in the 19th century by
renowned Victorian revivalist architect
George Gilbert Scott. The church has
an exhibition on the St Teilo Gospels, a
local 8th-century illuminated book,Below left Pastel-coloured inn on Market
Square, Llandovery Below right Yellow
daisy-like flowers at Aberglasney GardensBACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN
1 Llandovery
Carmarthenshire; SA20 OAP
This is a lovely Welsh market town with
neat cottages and Georgian buildings.
The ruined Norman castle by the river
was built in 1110 and sacked by
Owain Glyndŵr in 1403. Drive south
on Bridge Street out of town over the
river and then fork right to the village
of Myddfai. A family of doctors, the
“Physicians of Myddfai”, lived here
from the 14th to the 19th centuries,
and were renowned for their herbal
remedies. Walkers can use Llandovery
as a base for hikes around the northern
edge of the Brecon Beacons National
park (www.breconbeacons.org). Or hire
bikes from Myddfai Cycles (Myddfai Rd,
Llandovery, SA20 0LQ; 0155 720 372). Pick
up maps and leaflets from the tourist
information centre.
ª From Llandovery re-cross the bridge
and take the A40 west to Llandeilo.WHERE TO STAYLLANDOVERY
Kings Head Inn moderate
Lashings of history are on offer at this
16th-century inn with 14 ensuite rooms.
There’s a cosy bar and restaurant with
traditional home-cooked Welsh food.
1 Market Square, SA20 OAB; 01550 720
393; http://www.wales-llandovery-hotel.co.uk
LLANDEILO
Fronlas moderate
This boutique, eco-friendly B&B in an
Edwardian townhouse has three stylish
rooms and serves organic breakfasts.
7 Thomas Street, SA19 6LB; 01558 824
733; http://www.fronlas.com
LAUGHARNE
The Boat House B&B moderate
This B&B in the heart of town has four
light, airy and contemporary rooms.
It’s just a short walk from here to Dylan
Thomas’ famous Boathouse.
1 Gosport Street, SA33 4SY; 01994 427
263; http://www.bed-breakfast-holiday.co.ukVISITING LLANDOVERY
Parking
Free parking by the castle and TIC.
Tourist Information
Kings Rd, SA20 0AW; 01550 720 6934 National Botanic Garden
of Wales
Carmarthenshire; SA32 8HG
Once the estate of 18th-century banker
Sir William Paxton, Master of Calcutta
Mint, the National Botanic Garden of
Wales (open daily; http://www.gardenofwales.
org.uk) is the most visited garden in
Wales. Its central focus is the Great
Greenhouse, designed by Normanand the earliest known example of
Welsh script. Head west on the A40
turning off left to Llangathen and
Aberglasney Gardens (open daily;
http://www.aberglasney.org), a rare restored
cloister garden dating back to the
15th century. It is a planter’s paradise,
with vast swathes of delphiniums
and a yew tunnel. The mansion house
has a splendid early Victorian Ionic
portico, a shop and a café. Enjoy the
colourful profusion of butterflies
attracted by the flowers in summer.
ª From Llandeilo take A483 south to
Ffairfach, take a left at roundabout,
right after a railway bridge, following
signs to Trapp, then castle and car park.