141
Dylan Thomas
Dylan Thomas was one of the world’s
great 20th-century English-language
poets. Born in Swansea, he wrote
over half of his poems there
including “And Death Shall Have No
Dominion”. He moved west to New
Quay and Laugharne to write his
masterpiece “Under Milk Wood”, a
play about night and day, set in the
imaginary Welsh fishing village of
Llareggub, which means something
entirely different read backwards. He
was a big success in America but
died in New York aged only 39.Foster. It is the largest single-span
glasshouse in the world and houses a
collection of rare plant species in a
controlled climate. On the edge of the
park is a double-walled garden with a
Tropical House designed by John Belle,
a New York-based Welsh architect. This
is home to exotics such as pineapples,
coconuts, palms and cardamom.
There is also a Japanese garden which
won gold at the Chelsea Flower Show.
Other features include a bee garden,
an ice house, rare Welsh plants and a
mirror pool. The garden is wheelchair-
friendly, and there are several available
(pre-booking advised; 01558 667 148).
ª Head back to the A48 west towards
Carmarthen and take the A484 south to
Kidwelly (Cydweli). Follow signs to castle.
DRIVE 13: Wonders of West Wales
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £505 Kidwelly Castle
Carmarthenshire; SA17 5BQ
An imposing fortification, built during
the 13th–15th centuries on a bluff
over the River Gwendraeth, Kidwelly
Castle (open daily) was part of the
Norman strategy to secure south
Wales by controlling the river passes
here and at Laugharne, Llansteffan
and Loughor. The earliest parts of the
castle consist of the square inner ward
with the four round corner towers and
portcullis gates to the north and south.
Further concentric defences were
added in the mid-13th century by its
new owners, the de Chaworth family.
The gatehouse is extremely well
fortified and was designed so that it
could be held independently if the
rest of the castle was captured. The
castle also contains two bakehouses
and the remains of a chapel.
ª Return to Carmarthen, head
west on the A40 and turn left onto
the A4066 south to Laugharne.
6 Laugharne
Carmarthenshire; SA33 4SD
This is a very picturesque coastal town
with lovely cottages and Georgian
houses set on the expansive Taf
Estuary. The town and coastline is
dominated by the ruins of Laugharne
Castle. It was built by the Norman de
Brian family in the 13th and 14th
centuries and later turned into a
grand Tudor Mansion in the 16th
century by Sir John Perrot. During the
Elizabethan period, the town was
bigger than Cardiff and remained an
English-speaking village within Wales.
The narrow fishing lane behind the
castle leads up to Dylan Thomas’s
home, the Boathouse (01994 427 420;
http://www.dylanthomasboathouse.com) with
his modest writing-study in the garage.
There is a nice café here, so enjoy a
cup of tea while gazing out over pretty
Carmarthen Bay. The poet is buried in
a simple grave in the churchyard in
the north of the town.
There are several interesting shops
behind the clocktower and a jeweller,
Quicksilver, who can craft designs in
silver in just a couple of hours.
ª From Laugharne continue on the
A4066 to Pendine.EAT AND DRINKLLANDEILO
The Angel Hotel moderate
This established inn has a relaxed bar –
choose from the blackboard menu, or
dine in the more formal bistro. There’s
always a vegetarian choice available.
60 Rhosmaen, SA19 6EN; 01558 822
765; http://www.angelbistro.co.uk
AROUND THE NATIONAL
BOTANIC GARDEN OF WALES
Y Polyn moderate
On the B4310 south of the A40, Y Polyn
offers excellent Welsh produce, such as
organic beef, in traditional dishes with a
modern twist. Everything is home-
made – even the bread.
Capel Dewi, Nantgaredig,
SA32 7LH; 01267 290 000;
http://www.ypolynrestaurant.co.uk
LAUGHARNE
The Cors Restaurant moderate
Set in beautiful gardens and with a
charming interior, this restaurant features
local produce such as salt marsh lamb. It
also has two “shabby chic” bedrooms.
Newbridge Rd, SA33 4SH; 01994 427
219; http://www.the-cors.co.uk; open Thu–SatBelow The imposing Carreg Cennen, in a
superb setting Bottom left The Great
Greenhouse, National Botanic Garden of Wales
Bottom right Kidwelly Castle, one of a series
of 13th-century Norman fortifications