Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

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Below Leafy wooded avenue by the Art Nouveau

Church of St Mark’s, Brithdir

Above left Dark stone and painted house

façades in Machynlleth Above right Welsh

hill-farming country on the drive to Brithdir

BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

1 Machynlleth

Powys; SY20

This historic market town is where

Owain Glyndŵr first assembled his

Parliament and was crowned as

Prince of Wales in 1404. Owain started

his revolt against the English in 1400

during the reign of Henry IV. In 1412,

after the revolt foundered, legends

say that Owain went into hiding

around Machynlleth, and he was

never seen again. A copy of his seal

can be seen in the Old Parliament

House (Easter–Sep: closed Sun). This low

stone house was actually built in the

16th century, but is now a museum

about Owain Glyndŵr. The Tourist

Information Centre is next door.

The Tabernacle, a Neo-Classical

Wesleyan chapel dating from the late

18th century, has been converted to a

centre for the performing arts. The

MOMA Wales (open Mon–Sat; http://www.

momawales.org.uk) has evolved around

it with four art galleries displaying the

work of Welsh artists from 1900.

There is also a craft gallery, Fforwm

Crefft Cymru (www.fforwmcrefftcymru.

co.uk), which represents a wide range

of artists and craft workers from

silversmiths to furniture makers and

sculptors to textile workers.

2 Brithdir

Gwynedd; LL40 1RE

Brithdir’s major attraction is the

Church of St Mark’s. Its dark stone

exterior conceals an Italian-style

interior (open most of the year) with red-

ochre walls and a blue-sky ceiling.

Designed by Henry Wilson (known

for his commissions for Liberty’s) and

built 1895–98, it is one of the few Art

Nouveau churches in Wales. See the

ebony and abalone inlay on the

doors and naturalistic carvings on the

chestnut choir stall pews – squirrels,

rabbits, a tortoise and an owl – all

created in the Arts and Crafts

tradition. Notice, too, the beaten

copper panels on the pulpit and altar.

ª Return to A470 west. Take left turn

into Dolgellau along Ffos-y-Felin, which

WHERE TO STAY

AROUND MACHYNLLETH

Penrhos Arms Hotel moderate

Enjoy pleasant rooms with crisp bed

linen and antiques in this country inn,

11 km (7 miles) northeast on the A470.

Cemmaes, SY20 9PR; 01650 511 243;

http://www.penrhosarms.com

AROUND BRITHDIR

Ffynnon moderate–expensive

This 19th-century rectory is in Dolgellau,

8 km (5 miles) southeast of Brithdir. It

has four suites with roll-top baths.

Ffynnon, Love Lane, Dolgellau,

LL40 IRR; 01341 421 774;

http://www.ffynnontownhouse.com

HARLECH CASTLE

Cemlyn Tea Shop inexpensive

There are just two neat, comfortable

ensuite rooms above this lovely tea

shop. One of them has stunning views

of Harlech Castle and the sea.

High Street, LL46 2YA; 01766 780 425;

http://www.cemlynrestaurant.co.uk

BEDDGELERT

Sygun Fawr inexpensive–moderate

Lovely old house in pretty gardens,

with friendly atmosphere and lots of

character – try for a mountain view.

Take A498 north and then first right.

Beddgelert, LL55 4NE; 01766 890 258;

http://www.sygunfawr.co.uk

Head north on the A487 and take

a sharp left on B4405 to Tal-y-Llyn a

stunningly beautiful glacial lake in the

shadow of Cadair Idris. Enjoy a walk

or take a boat out onto the lake. Its

shallow reedy beds are stocked with

brown trout, and the lake is visited

by sea trout and salmon in October.

Obtain permits from Tynycornel Hotel

(01654 782282; http://www.tynycornel.co.uk).

ª Leave on A487 north, then turn left

on A470 towards Dolgellau and follow

signs to Brithdir church. Park on

B4416 at church entrance.

VISITING MACHYNLLETH

Parking

Car park on Maengwyn St opposite

the Tourist Information Centre.

Tourist Information

Heol Maengwyn, SY20 8EE (next to

Owain Glyndŵr Museum); 01654 702 401

VISITING BEDDGELERT

Snowdonia National Park

Information Centre

Canolfan Hebog, LL55 4YD; 01766

890 615; http://www.eryri-npa.gov.uk