Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

(Tina Meador) #1

151


EAT AND DRINK

MACHYNLLETH
The Wynnstay inexpensive–moderate
Local suppliers provide the ingredients
for the dishes here, from pheasant
breast to Welsh cheese cannelloni.
There’s also a separate pizzeria.
Heol Maengwyn, SY20 8AE; 01654 702
941; http://www.wynnstay-hotel.com
AROUND BRITHDIR
Dylanwad Da moderate
This little restaurant and coffee shop
in Dolgellau, about 8 km (5 miles)
southeast of Brithdir, uses lots of local
produce. Dishes might include rosemary
and garlic roast lamb, with Welsh whisky
and honey ice cream for dessert.
2 Ffos-y-Felin, Dolgellau, LL40 1BS;
01341 422 870; http://www.dylanwad.co.uk
HARLECH CASTLE
Castle Cottage Restaurant
moderate–expensive
An award-winning family-run restaurant
in the heart of Harlech, Castle Cottage
adds a sophisticated twist to Welsh
produce, such as aromatic Welsh lamb
pancakes with hoisin sauce. There’s a
good wine list, and rooms, too.
High Street, LL46 2YL; 01766 780 479;
http://www.castlecottageharlech.co.uk
BEDDGELERT
Tanronnen Inn inexpensive
For a traditional bar meal, head for this
busy inn, conveniently situated in the
centre of town. The inn has rooms and
also does packed lunches for day trips.
Beddgelert, LL55 4YB; 01766 890 347;
http://www.tanronnen.co.uk

Above Stone houses overlooking the river at
Beddgelert, crossed by a rustic bridge

Above One of the many rivers running off the
peaks around Beddgelert


DRIVE 14: Through Snowdonia National Park


bears slightly right into Felin Isaf, then
right into Porth Canol, which becomes
Fford Cader Idris. After 8 km (5 miles) car
park at Llynnau Cregennan is on right.


Below Impressive Harlech Castle, looking as though
it has grown from the rocky hillside


5 Beddgelert
Gwynedd; LL55
Perhaps Snowdonia’s prettiest village,
Beddgelert has a lovely tea shop, and
several cafés, bars and bistros. The
town is centred on a rustic bridge
from where, along the south bank of
the river, a path leads to the supposed
monument to Llywelyn the Great’s
deerhound, Gelert. The story goes that,
while Llywelyn was hunting, the dog
saved his child from a wolf but
Llywelyn, seeing the blood, thought
the hound had killed his boy. He slew
Gellert, but found his son safe and the
wolf dead. He set a cairn of stones over
the dog’s grave, Beth Gelert. A short
drive east on the A498, Llyn Gwynant is
a lake in some simply stunning scenery.
ª Turn left out of car park to A498 and
left onto A4086 to Llanberis, left at round-
about and right to railway car park.

4 Harlech Castle
Gwynedd; LL46 2YH
Impressively situated on a bluff over
Tremadog Bay, Harlech Castle was
built between 1283–90 at a cost of
£8,190 by Edward I’s master mason,
James of St George, who was also
responsible for Caernarfon, Conway
and Beaumaris castles. One of Edward’s
“iron ring” of castles, Harlech was
designed to be supplied by sea, but
the waters have since receded, leaving
the castle high and dry. In 1404 Owain
Glyndŵr took the castle, using it for his
parliament. It was retaken after a long
siege in 1408 by Harry of Monmouth,
later Henry V. In the Wars of the Roses,
it endured the longest siege in British
history (1461–68) before being taken
by the Yorkists, giving rise to the well-
known military song “Men of Harlech”.
ª Continue on A496 north and turn
left to Penrhyndeudraeth; leave on
the A4085, which joins the A498. In
3 Cadair Idris Beddgelert, take second left to car park.
Gwynedd
A huge 11-km (7-mile) long ridge,
892-m (2,927-ft) high, Cadair Idris
dominates the surrounding area. The
name means “Chair of Idris”, after the
giant warrior of Welsh legend. It’s an
area of outstanding scenic beauty and
very popular with walkers. The tough
paths to the top from the waters of
Llynnau Cregennan take 4 to 6 hours
to complete – on the way there are
some standing stones and cairns over
4,000 years old. Climb to the small hill
just above the car park for splendid
views of Barmouth and Snowdonia.
ª Take the road up and down to A493
and turn right to Penmaenpool. Here,
take a left over the toll bridge to A496.
Turn left for Barmouth and on to
Harlech. Park in front of the castle.

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