Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

(Tina Meador) #1

163


Above View of the Shropshire countryside around Ludlow


Below The imposing red Powis Castle, set in
exquisite terraced gardens

whose ashes are buried in the church
wall near the West Door. Exit the church
and return to King St. Turn right and
carry on down Church St to Castle
Square, turning left to return to Mill St.
ª Take A49 towards Shrewsbury, then
B4365 right to a T-junction (B4368). Turn
left, then first right to Ticklerton and the
museum, 2 km (1½ miles) beyond.


2 Acton Scott Farm Museum
Shropshire; SY6 6QN
This living history farm museum
(Apr–Oct: closed Mon) recreates life on a
Shropshire farm at the turn of the last
century. Visitors are returned to the
days of shire horses, hay ricks and
milkmaids, and the farm is stocked
with pigs, poultry, cows and sheep,
including some rare breeds. Kids will
enjoy the daily demonstrations by
farm workers dressed in period
costumes. There are also waymarked
walks starting from the farm.
ª Turn left from car park and straight
across to A49. Turn right, then left onto
B4370, then take A489 right. Next take
the B4385 to castle and car park.


4 Welshpool
Powys; SY21 8RF
Set in the picturesque countryside of
the Severn Valley, Welshpool makes
an excellent base for exploring the
surrounding area. The big attraction,
off the A490 into town (with car park,
or a 1-km/2-mile walk across parkland),
is stunning Powis Castle (Mar–Oct: open
Thu–Mon; Jul–Aug: open Wed–Mon).
Originally a 13th-century fort, it is the
only Welsh castle to have remained a
residence from the medieval to the
modern period. The castle’s golden
age was in Elizabethan times, when it
was acquired by the Herbert family
(1587) and altered extensively. In
1784, Henrietta Herbert married
Edward Clive, the son of Clive of India.
Clive’s collection in the museum is
probably the greatest display of Indian
Mughal art outside the subcontinent.
The “red castle” (Castell Coch in
Welsh) sits in a delightful Baroque
17th-century Italianate terraced
garden dotted with sculptures and
manicured hedges. Look out, too, for
sentinel red kites which hover above.
At the western edge of town, the
Welshpool & Llanfair Light Railway
(Apr–Aug: open daily; Sep: closed Mon;
01938 810 441; http://www.wllr.org.uk), built in
1903, takes visitors on a 26-km (16-
mile) round trip through rural Powys
on a narrow-gauge steam railway.
The Dingle Nursery and Garden
(open daily; http://www.dinglenurseries.co.uk) at
Frochas, north of Welshpool on the
A490, has a superb small garden.
ª Continue along the A490, then A483
and A5, taking B5070 to Chirk. Follow
signs left for Chirk Castle (with car park).

DRIVE 15: Along Offa’s Dyke


Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

3 Montgomery Castle
Powys; SY15
It was the Norman knight Roger de
Montgomerie (the very first Earl of
Shrewsbury) who built the first fort
here in c.1070 – the motte-and-
bailey Hen Domen, at the bottom of
Castle Hill. The present castle (open
daily) was built in 1223 during the
reign of Henry III to defend the border
against the Welsh Prince, Llywelyn the
Great (1173–1240). It was demolished
during the Civil War. There are great
views out over a wide expanse of
countryside to the north and east.
ª Head northwest on B4385, joining
the A483 north, with the floodplain of


EAT AND DRINK

LUDLOW
Koo inexpensive–moderate
It’s a welcome surprise to find such
good-value Japanese cuisine in Ludlow.
Enjoy sparkling fresh food that looks
too good to eat. The service is friendly
and the restaurant is very popular.
127 Old Street, SY8 1NU; 01584 878
462; http://www.koo-ook.co.uk
Mr Underhills moderate–expensive
In a glorious setting beside the weir,
this Michelin-starred restaurant offers
friendly service and superb food: the
7-course tasting menu changes daily
(also does rooms). Booking essential.
Dinham Weir, Ludlow SY8 1EH; 01584
874 431; http://www.mr-underhills.co.uk
La Bécasse moderate–expensive
Attentive service, an eye for detail and
ambitious but well-executed dishes
are on offer here. Try wood pigeon
with foie gras and wasabi, or liquorice
pannacotta with a yoghurt sabayon.
17 Corve Street, SY8 1DA; 01584 872
325; http://www.labecasse.co.uk
WELSHPOOL
Revells moderate
Centrally located with a café-lunchstop,
delicatessen and restaurant, Revells
fulfills a useful function and is a good
place to stock up on picnic provisions.
Look out for music nights at weekends.
Berriew Street, SY21 7SQ; 01938 559
000; http://www.revellsbistro.co.uk
AROUND WELSHPOOL
Seeds moderate
Quirky little restaurant in a cottage 18
km (11 miles) north of Welshpool on the
A490, with a reputation for serving great
food. The menu features gems such as
home-potted shrimps and rack of Welsh
lamb, and also vegetarian dishes.
5 Penybryn Cottage, High Street,
Llanfyllin, SY22 5AP; 01691 648 604

the Severn flowing south on the right.
Fork left onto the A490 into Welshpool.
Park in Church St in the town centre.
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