164
5 Chirk Castle
Wrexham; LL14 5AF
Built as a border fortress at the end of
the 13th century by Roger Mortimer, a
warlord of Edward I, Chirk Castle (Feb–
Oct: open Wed–Sun) is full of beautiful
furniture and paintings. Bought in the
16th century by Sir Thomas Myddleton,
his descendants hired Augustus Pugin
(1812–52), Gothic revivalist and
architect of the Houses of Parliament,
to carry out major alterations. There
are also some wonderful Neo-Classical
rooms by Joseph Turner. The library
has many fine books and the garden,
laid out in the 18th century with
dramatic clipped yews, is a particular
highlight. There is also an impressive
set of intricate iron-lacework gates.
ª Return to Chirk, taking B5070 north
to A5 and on to Llangollen. Park in the
centre, or cross the bridge and turn right
into Mill St for the long-stay car park.Offa’s Dyke
The Anglo-Saxon King Offa of
Mercia (AD 757–96) is best known
for his dyke, a defensive earthwork,
running north to south, built to
protect the border between Mercia
and Wales. Built from AD 780–90, it
was up to 27 m (88 ft) wide and 8
m (26 ft) high, with probably a wall
or palisade at the top. However, it
was of limited success and was
soon overrun. Today, the 285-km
(177-mile) Offa’s Dyke Footpath
(www.nationaltrail.co.uk/offasdyke)
is a pretty national trail passing
close to Montgomery, Powis Castle,
Chirk Castle and Castell Dinas Bran.6 Llangollen
Denbighshire; LL20
British Prime Minister and Welshman,
David Lloyd George (1863–1945),
described the area around Llangollen
as “a little bit of heaven on earth”.
Llangollen itself is best known for the
International Musical Eisteddfod. This
was set up in 1947 to encourage good
relations between all nations after
World War II. The town gets very busy
during the festival in July. Visit the
black and white half-timbered Plas
Newydd (Easter–Oct: open daily), the
former home of the “Ladies of
Llangollen”, Lady Eleanor Butler and
Miss Sarah Ponsonby, who ran away
from Ireland together to live here
between 1780 and1829. Famed in
Regency society, their visitors included
the Duke of Wellington, Wordsworth,
Byron, Shelley and the Darwins. Above
the town looms 213-m (700-ft) the
ruins of Castell Dinas Bran. Follow the
path marked from the Canal Wharf
bridge up to the top for superb views.
WHERE TO STAY The 74-km (46-mile) Llangollen Canal,AROUND CHIRK CASTLE
The West Arms Hotel moderate
The drive to this ancient inn set in the
tranquil Ceiriog Valley is long – but a real
treat. The hotel is 18 km (11 miles) west
of Chirk on the B4500 with pretty ensuite
rooms and lovely views.
Llanarmon Dyffryn Ceiriog, LL20 7LD;
01691 600 665; http://www.thewestarms.co.uk
LLANGOLLEN
Gales of Llangollen inexpensive
This hotel has 15 ensuite rooms with
original features, plus widescreen TVs
and wifi. Some rooms are over the wine
bar, others in a timber-framed building..
18 Bridge Street, LL20 8PF; 01978 860
089; http://www.galesofllangollen.co.uk
RUTHIN
Firgrove Country House moderate
This charming Georgian house, just west
of Ruthin on the B5105, has extensive
gardens, two attractive B&B rooms plus a
self-catering suite. Can do evening meals.
Llanfwrog, LL15 2LL; 01824 702677;
http://www.firgrovecountryhouse.co.uk
Manorhaus moderate
This boutique hotel has eight modern,
stylish rooms. There are luxurious
touches like fine bedlinen, DVD players,
sleek bathrooms, and there’s even a
private cinema for guests.
Well Street, LL15 1AH; 01824 704 830;
http://www.manorhaus.comRight The colourful hills and valley of
Horseshoe Pass, near LlangollenAbove left Decorative topiary in the grounds
of Chirk Castle Top right Pub sign, Llangollen
Bottom right The ruins of Valle Crucis Abbey,
set in glorious countrysideBACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150