165
7 Ruthin
Shropshire; LL15
This town’s historic centre is filled with
timber-framed buildings. Nantclwyd y
Dre is a c.1435 historic house in Castle
Street displaying rooms from seven
periods from the 15th to the 20th
century. The new Ruthin Craft Centre
(and TIC) is also worth a stop, showing
crafts from across the British Isles.
Ruthin Gaol (Feb–Oct: open daily; Nov–
Jan: weekends; http://www.ruthingaol.co.uk))
opposite the Watergate Tea Room, has
been restored as a prison museum.
ª Leave on the A525 for Denbigh.
Look out for a sign to Llanrhaeadr on
left (easy to miss) and park by church.
8 St Dyfnog’s Church
Denbigh; LL16 4NN
In the tiny village of Llanrhaeadr, St
Dyfnog’s Church holds one of the
most important Welsh ecclesiastical
treasures. It is the most complete
“Jesse Tree” window (showing Jesus’
descent from Jesse, King David’s
father). The work dates from 1544 and
was paid for by pilgrims seeking the
healing powers of the holy well of St
Dyfnog – visible in the woods behind
the church. It is regarded as the finest
pre-Reformation stained glass in
Wales. Admire its powerful depth of
colour, revealed in 23 portraits from
Jesse, reclining at the base, to other
figures associated with Jesus’ lineage.
Next door is the Anvil Pottery, in an
old smithy, where the two potters
make beautiful but functional glazed
stone- and earthenware pots.
ª Take the A525 north to Denbigh,
then A453 – car park is on the right.EAT AND DRINKAROUND CHIRK CASTLE
The West Arms Hotel moderate
Cosy fireplaces and low beams add
character to this historic inn, 18 km (11
miles) west of Chirk on the B4500. There’s
a restaurant and bar, serving mixed grills,
local trout and vegetarian dishes.
Llanarmon Dyffryn Ceiriog, LL20 7LD;
01691 600 665; http://www.thewestarms.co.uk
LLANGOLLEN
The Corn Mill moderate
Gorgeous riverside setting at this
converted corn mill, now an award-
winning pub. Come for delicious steak
sandwiches, ploughmans’ lunches,
fishcakes and sticky toffee pudding.
Dee Lane, LL20 8PN; 01978 869 555;
http://www.brunningandprice.co.uk
AROUND LLANGOLLEN
The Sun Inn inexpensive
There’s lots of character at this 14th-
century drovers’ inn, west of Llangollen
on the B103 off the A542. It has
wooden beams, open fires and
serves good bar meals and real ale.
Rhewl, LL20 7YT; 01978 861 043
Ponderosa Café inexpensive
The splendid views are the selling
point here, more than the food. It’s
cheap, cheerful and child-friendly.
Horseshoe Pass, LL20 8DR; 01978 790
307; http://www.ponderosacafe.co.uk
RUTHIN
Wynnstay Arms inexpensive–moderate
This 16th-century coaching inn offers
a modern tapas menu, as well as
traditional Sunday lunches, such as roast
Welsh lamb, and bar meals. Try Eton
mess for dessert.
Well Street, LL15 1AN; 01824 703 147;
http://www.wynnstayarms.comAbove Plas-Newydd, the pretty home of the
“Ladies of Llangollen”Above Half-timbered houses line the street in the
market town of RuthinAbove Barges cruising serenely along the
Llangollen Canal
over the Dee valley, is a beautiful spot
for a walk. It crosses the stunning 37-m
(121-ft) high Pontcysyllte Aqueduct,
designed by Thomas Telford and
William Jessop. Completed in 1805, it is
the longest and highest aqueduct in
the UK. For a better look, head 5-km (3-
miles) east on the A539. Here visitors
can hire a barge for the day to cruise
the canal from Trevor Wharf Services
(Canal Wharf, LL20 7TY; 01978 821 749).
West of Llangollen, along the A542
(with car park), lies Valle Crucis Abbey,
a ruined Cistercian Abbey dating from
- Walk further along the road to
Eliseg’s Pillar, set up in the 9th century
by the King of Powys in memory of his
great-grandfather. Driving further on,
the road rises up to Horseshoe Pass
(416 m/1,367 ft, often snowbound in
winter) and the Ponderosa Café –
worth a stop for the views, but beware
of crisp-snatching mountain sheep.
ª Take the A542, then A525 to Ruthin.
Park in the centre off Station Road.
DRIVE 15: Along Offa’s Dyke
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50