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Above The former St Asaph Union Workhouse,
now HM Stanley HospitalThe William Morgan Bible
Henry VIII’s Acts of Union introduced
1536–43 made English the official
language of Wales and marginalized
the Welsh tongue. The scholar and
bishop, William Morgan, created his
Welsh bible using Hebrew and Greek
originals to create an accurate yet
poetic classic. He completed his
translation in 1588 and it was used
to teach successive generations
how to read and write Welsh. The
clarity and power of its language
resonates through the centuries.WHERE TO STAYAROUND DENBIGH
Pentre Mawr Country House moderate
Head east from Denbigh on the Ruthin
Rd, taking the minor road further east to
the B5429. Turn left and left again to this
historic family home. It has beautiful
bedrooms, some with four-poster beds
and freestanding baths. There are lovely
views, a swimming pool and hot tubs
and home-cooked dinners, if required.
Llandyrnog, LL16 4LA; 01824 790 732;
http://www.pentremawrcountryhouse.co.uk
Tan-yr-Onnen inexpensive
In the country just south of Junction 28
on the A55, this B&B offers modern
rooms with Wi-Fi and DVD players, and
serves home-made bread for breakfast.
Waen, LL17 0DU; 01745 583 821;
http://www.northwalesbreaks.co.uk
AROUND ST ASAPH
Bach y Graig inexpensive
This 16th-century farmhouse is set in
quiet countryside, south of St Asaph off
the A541. It has five cosy ensuite rooms
and a beamed lounge with a log fire.
Tremeirchion, LL17 0UH; 01745 730
627; http://www.bachygraig.co.uk
HOLYWELL
Greenhill Farm inexpensive
This working dairy farm on the outskirst
of Holywell has four rooms. Enjoy hearty
farmhouse breakfasts as the cows are
being milked.
Bryn Celyn, CH8 7QF; 01352 713 270;
http://www.greenhillfarm.co.uk9 Denbigh
Denbighshire; LL16
Dominating the town, Denbigh
Castle (open daily) was built in 1282
under Henry de Lacy, Edward I’s
councillor. Marvel at the triple-
towered Great Gatehouse with a
statue of King Edward – only grand
Caernarfon Castle has
something similar. Even the
town walls were built to
integrate with the castle.
Walk north down to the
Burgess Gate, the main gate
of the town wall with
chequered stonework. On
the way, look out for the
tower of St Hilary’s Chapel,
built in 1300, and Leicester’s Church,
the remains of Robert Dudley, Earl of
Leicester’s unfinished church. It was
important because it was the only
large church built (1579–80) between
the Dissolution of the Monasteries
and the rebuilding of St Paul’s
Cathedral in London.
ª Leave on the A525 to St Asaph. Park
next to the cathedral (on the A525).Right One of the towers of Denbigh castle, built
to subdue the WelshBACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £1500 St Asaph
Denbighshire; LL17
This tiny city, set amid glorious scenery
with views over the Vale of Clwyd, is
home to Britain’s smallest cathedral.
St Asaph’s Cathedral (open daily) was
founded in AD 560 by exiled Scottish
bishop Saint Kentigern. However, its
turbulent history – it was sacked by
Henry III in 1245, Edward I in 1282
and Owain Glyndŵr in 1402 –
means that the current
building is mostly 14th
century with more modern
additions made by the
Victorian architect Sir George
Gilbert Scott (1867–75).
Importantly, it houses a
copy of the 1588 translation
of the Bible into Welsh by
William Morgan who later became
bishop here. The revised version,
published in 1620, enabled the survival
of the Welsh language and its
continued everyday use in the face of
pressure from English. The cruciform
St Asaph Union Workhouse was built
in 1838. One of its inmates was five-
year old orphan John Rowlands, who
later changed his name to HenryItem from Earthworks
Pottery, St Asaph