Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

167

w Holywell

Flintshire; CH8 7PN

Close to the estuary of the River Dee,

Holywell is a historic market town

whose name derives from its main

attraction, St Winefride’s Well (open

daily). Legend has it that in AD 660,

the son of local chieftain, Caradoc,

beheaded the young Winefride after

she refused his advances. Water sprang

from the earth at the spot where her

head fell, and she was restored to life

by her uncle, St Beuno. The spring

rises in the crypt of a 16th-century hall

and flows into a large bathing pool.

Look out for the sculpture of a pilgrim

being carried to the well on a friend’s

back. The waters of the “Lourdes of

Wales” have been said to cause

miraculous cures since the 7th century

and today, pilgrims travel from all over

the world to worship at the shrine and

take the water. In the Middle Ages, the

Holywell to St David’s road linked the

two most important Welsh shrines

and was known as “The Pilgrims Road”

right up to the 19th century.

Far left The bathing pool at St Winefride’s

Well, Holywell Left Stained-glass window,

from a chapel at St Winefride’s Well, Holywell

DRIVE 15: Along Offa’s Dyke

DAY TRIP OPTIONS

Ludlow, Llangollen and Denbigh are

all excellent bases for exploring the

treasures of Wales.

One for the Kids

From Ludlow 1 , see the castle and

buy food for a picnic, then head to

Acton Scott Farm Museum 2 to see

the animals and enjoy lunch in the

country. On to Welshpool 4 , for a ride

on the steam train and a visit to Powis

Castle, if there’s time.

Follow the drive route but return on the

A490, A489 and A49 for speed.

Local Llangollen

Start at Llangollen 6 with a visit to

the society ladies’ house of Plas

Newydd, then a climb up Dinas Bran

for some stunning views. After a visit

to the canal and aqueduct, have lunch

at Horseshoe Pass, and see Valle Crucis

Abbey. Drive south to Chirk Castle 5

to admire its interiors and gardens.

Follow the drive’s instructions in reverse.

Cultural and Religious Treasures

Staying at Denbigh 9 , see the castle

and churches before heading to St

Asaph 0 to see the William Morgan

Bible; head on to Bodelwyddan Castle

q, filled with fine treasures, and on to

the pilgrimage site of Holywell w.

Return towards Denbigh, going past it

and on to Llanrhaeadr and St Dyfnog’s

Church 8 to see the Jesse Window.

Follow the drive’s instructions all the

way there and back.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

q Bodelwyddan Castle
Denbighshire; LL18 5YA
A “fortified” house and museum set in
expansive grounds, Bodelwyddan
Castle (open weekends; open weekdays,
summer and school holidays; 01745 584
060; http://www.bodelwyddan-castle.co.uk)) was
named after Elwyddan, a 5th-century
Romano-British chieftain. Although the
estate dates back to the 15th century,
most of what is visible today – the
limestone turrets and battlements –
was created by John Hay Williams
between 1830 and 1852 with the
architects Hansom and Welch.
As an outpost of the National Portrait
Gallery, it is a real trove of art treasures,
and also houses furniture from the
V&A Museum and sculptures from the
Royal Academy of Arts. The interiors
are sumptuous and there are galleries
on the upper floor. Outside there are
formal gardens and parkland with
woodlands walks and nature trails.
The grounds also have trenches used
to train soldiers for World War I.

EAT AND DRINK

ST ASAPH

The Plough Inn moderate

This former coaching inn is now a gastro

pub with a traditional bar downstairs,

and a bistro and Art Deco restaurant

upstairs. Enjoy fresh food and real ales.

The Roe, LL187 0LU; 01745 585 080

AROUND HOLYWELL

Red Lion Inn inexpensive

Take the A5026 northwest, then the

A5151, turning right for Llanasa to find

this cosy country pub. Enjoy a wide

range of bar meals, including

traditional fish and chips.

Llanasa, CH8 9NE; 01745 855 296

SHOPPING IN ST ASAPH

Wendy Gill at Earthworks Pottery

(Lower Street, LL17 0SG; 01745 583

353; http://www.earthworkspottery.co.uk)

creates attractive handmade slipware

ceramics. Browse the individual jugs,

teapots, vases, jars and hand-decorated

pots with planetary themes. There is

parking nearby on Lower Street.

ª Turn right out of castle, over the

flyover, and onto A55 towards Chester.

Turn off for A5026 on the left, turning

left at the sign for St Winefride’s Well.

Morton Stanley and, as a journalist,
found missing explorer, Dr Livingstone.
ª Leave on B5381 towards Betws-yn-
Rhos, over roundabout and sharp
right. Follow brown signs to castle.