Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

173

Above left Walkers beside the River Dove, in

Dovedale Above right Edale Parish Church

and the National Park’s Moorland Centre

3 Buxton
Derbyshire; SK17
Famous for its mineral waters since
Roman times, Buxton was transformed
in the 1780s, when the fifth Duke of
Devonshire decided to create a stylish
spa here in imitation of Bath, and
commissioned Neo-Classical buildings
such as the elegant Crescent and giant
domed Stables, now Derby University.
Buxton remained popular in the 19th
century, gaining the lovely Pavilion
Gardens and the ornate 1905 Opera
House (www.buxtonoperahouse.org.uk) –
the centre of the Buxton Festival of
Music and Arts (July). The water from

DRIVE 16: Around the Peak District

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

5 Castleton

Derbyshire; S33

Winnats Pass, a spectacular gash in the

landscape, leads to lovely Castleton,

overlooked by the romantic ruins of

11th-century Peveril Castle (open mid-

Mar–Oct daily; Nov–mid-Mar: closed Tue,

Wed), which gave Castleton its name.

This old stone village is also close to

dramatic caves (open daily) from which

minerals such as Blue John, a unique

local purple fluorspar, were mined for

centuries. The best caves to visit are

Blue John Cavern at the top of Winnats

Pass, Peak Cavern, Treak Cliff Cavern

and Speedwell Cavern, a “drowned

mine” reached by boat. Further down

the valley, Hope is another attractive

village, with a fine 14th-century church.

ª Continue down the Hope Valley Rd

(A6187) to Hathersage.

EAT AND DRINK

ASHBOURNE

St John Street Gallery & Café

inexpensive

A former magistrates’ court has been

turned into a lively arts centre, which

also has a friendly café, with delicious

salads, snacks and main dishes. There

are vegetarian choices and home-made

specialities include Stilton and walnut

pâté – beers and wines are available.

50 St John Street, DE6 1GH; 01335 347

425; http://www.sjsg.co.uk

AROUND ILAM AND DOVEDALE

The Manifold Inn moderate

This classic stone coaching inn, on the

route from Ilam to Buxton, has a garden

terrace and serves some of the county’s

best pub food, including delicious beef

and ale pies, and lighter options – it

also has rooms.

Hulme End, Hartington,

SK17 0EX; 01298 84537;

http://www.themanifoldinn.co.uk

BUXTON

Pavilion Gardens moderate

Occupying the magnificent Victorian

conservatories in Buxton’s grand park,

this café makes the most of its space

and light. Choose between the main

café, or the Art Café above, decorated

by local artists. The menu, based on

local produce, runs from breakfasts

and snacks to larger dishes for lunch.

St John’s Road, SK17 6XN; 01298 23114 ;

http://www.paviliongardens.co.uk

AROUND BUXTON

Vanilla Kitchen inexpensive

Take the A6 east, then the B6049 north

to Tideswell to find this bright, award-

winning café. Ingredients are seasonal

and local, whether used in tasty

lunches or the scrumptious range of

cakes. Beers, wines and great Fairtrade

coffee are also served.

Queen Street, Tideswell, SK17 8PF; 01298

871 519; http://www.vanillakitchen.co.uk

4 Edale

Derbyshire; S33

Nestling in a broad valley, pretty Edale

is a magnet for hikers as the start of the

Pennine Way, the 412-km (256-mile)

footpath to Scotland – but there are

many shorter walks in the area. Visit the

National Park’s Moorland Centre, for

maps, information and walking routes.

The two village pubs, the Rambler Inn

and Old Nag’s Head, are favourite spots

for a restorative drink after a hike.

ª Retrace the route back to the

B6061 and turn second left for Edale

(Winnats Pass) to Castleton.

Dovedale Wood 5. The path goes
through the wood before a right turn
starts a very steep winding descent to
the bottom of Dovedale itself, to a
stone pillar known as Ilam Rock 6.
Turn right, and cross a footbridge to
the main path down the east side of
the dale. Compared to the windswept
hills, it feels sheltered here. On the
walk through the woods, look out for
cave entrances and natural landmarks,
such as the rock arch to Reynard’s
Cave 7 , the stone towers of the
Twelve Apostles 8 (through the
trees), Lover’s Leap 9 and the dale’s
most picturesque sight, the Stepping
Stones 0 to the west bank. Here, the
Dove turns, below another hill, Thorpe
Cloud q. Follow the path back to the
Dovedale car park, and beyond it, take
the footpath to the right back to Ilam.
ª Go up hill to Stanshope, through the
village and at next junction left through
Wetton. Take left fork at bottom of hill,
next right, then left signed Hulme End.
After tunnel, turn left for Hulme End, left
again at junction and right at Manifold
Inn (B5054). Take left to Sheen and
Longnor, then B5053 and A515 to
Buxton. Park near the Crescent.

St Ann’s Well, in the town centre, is still

valued. The baths are now a shopping

centre, still with beautiful Victorian tiles.

ª Leave on A6 north, turn right onto

A623. At Sparrowpit, take left to Edale

(B6061). At junction keep left for Barber

Booth, then left again towards Chapel-

en-le-Frith. Turn sharp right for Barber

Booth and car park on left in Edale.