174
Above Glorious Chatsworth Park, created by
Capability Brown in the 1760sBelow The church at Eyam, a village decimated
during the Great Plague of 1665BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £1507 Eyam
Derbyshire; S32
Eyam became famous as an amazing
example of self-sacrifice. In 1665,
when the Great Plague was raging in
London, the disease also took hold of
Eyam. The village agreed to cut off all
contact with the outside world until
the plague had run its course, to avoid
infecting the surrounding villages.
They maintained this for nearly a year,
during which 257 people died. The
story is told in the Eyam Museum
(late Mar–early Nov: open Tue–Sun) and
through monuments around the
village, such as the Riley Graves, where
all seven of the Hancock family were
buried in a field. Despite this grim
history, today Eyam is a charming
village of old stone houses. The
imposing mansion of Eyam Hall hosts
a craft centre and is open to visitors (for
opening times, see http://www.eyamhall.co.uk).
ª Take the B6521 south and then A623
left to Baslow, where Chatsworth is well
signposted. The B6012 leads through
the Chatsworth estate.6 Hathersage
Derbyshire; S32
On the drive down the Hope Valley,
a dramatic wall of red rock, Stanage
Edge, is visible to the northeast of
Hathersage. Head up to the “Edge”
from town for fabulous views – many
walking paths begin near Hathersage’s
tranquil 14th-century church. In the
churchyard lies Little John’s Grave
where, according to local legend,
Robin Hood’s best friend is buried. On
the south side of the village is the
Round Building, the workshop and
shop of the celebrated cutlery
designer David Mellor (1930–2009).
ª Take B6001 through Grindleford,
then right (B6521) to Eyam. Follow signs
to Eyam museum for large car park.8 Chatsworth
Derbyshire; DE45 1PP
One of the grandest of Britain’s great
houses and a model of 18th-century
elegance, the Palladian mansion of
Chatsworth (open daily) has been home
to the Dukes and Duchesses of
Devonshire since the early 1700s. Truly
palatial, the house has sumptuous
furnishings and works of art, but is
made still more magnificent by its
setting, as the centrepiece of a majestic
park created by “Capability” Brown in
the 1760s with huge formal gardens
with fountains, a maze and cascading
waterworks. There’s also an adventure
playground, shops and special
exhibitions. Opposite the Chatsworth
entrance, Edensor is a pretty model
village, built in the 1830s when the
then Duke decided the original
Edensor village was too close.
ª Turn right from Chatsworth, back
towards Baslow, then left on a road
signed for Pilsley and Bakewell (B6048).
Turn left again onto A619 into Bakewell.
Use pay car park off main street.Peak District Pubs
Snug old stone pubs are among
the jewels of the Peak District, and
many provide well-priced food. As
well as the Manifold Inn (see p173),
other pubs to look out for are
Smith’s Tavern and the historic
Green Man & Black’s Head Royal
Hotel (see p173) in Ashbourne, the
Bluebell Inn in Tissington near Ilam,
the Old Nag’s Head and the
Ramblers’ Inn in Edale, the Cheshire
Cheese in Hope near Castleton, the
Miners’ Arms in Eyam and the
Plough Inn, just south of Hathersage.WHERE TO STAYHATHERSAGE
Cannon Croft inexpensive
A pretty – and environmental – B&B in a
Hathersage cottage with superb views
of the hills from its garden and indoor
conservatory. The helpful owners
provide generous organic breakfasts.
Cannonfields, S32 1AG; 01433 650 005;
http://www.cannoncroftbedandbreakfast.
co.uk
AROUND EYAM
Bretton Cottage moderate
This distinctive guesthouse in a 17th-
century hillside farmhouse, off Sir William
Hill Rd just north of Eyam, offers huge
rooms with sitting areas, fridges and
coffee- and tea-making facilities. The
breakfasts are substantial, too. There are
also three self-contained cottages for rent.
Bretton, near Eyam, S32 5QD; 01433
631 076; http://www.peakholidayhomes.com
AROUND CHATSWORTH
Bubnell Cliff Farm inexpensive
Enjoy two characterful rooms with large
bathrooms and lovely views on all sides
in this homely farmhouse B&B in Baslow
off the A619 on the edge of the
Chatsworth estate. As usual in the Peaks,
generous breakfasts of local farm
produce make a great start to the day.
Wheatlands Lane, Baslow, near
Bakewell, DE45 1RF; 01246 582 454;
http://www.bubnellcliff.co.uk
AROUND HADDON HALL
East Lodge Hotel and
Restaurant expensive
In Rowsley, off the A6, south of Haddon
Hall, this fine old house has been
beautifully restored with a blend of
country-house and modern boutique-
hotel style. It has just 12 sumptuous
rooms and the gourmet restaurant,
looking out onto the gardens, provides
seasonal modern menus to match.
Rowsley, Matlock, DE4 2EF; 01629 734
474; http://www.eastlodge.com