182
Above Jockeys taking the young racehorses
out for exercise, MiddlehamWensleydale
This wonderful cheese is hand-made
using milk from cows grazing on the
sweet pastures in Upper Wensleydale.
White Wensleydale is a young cheese,
with a clean, mild, slightly sweet
flavour. It can be bought, along with
mature and oak-smoked and ewes’
milk versions at the Wensleydale
Creamery shop and visitors’ centre on
the left on Gayle Lane on the way out
of Hawes (www.wensleydale.co.uk).WHERE TO STAYJERVAULX ABBEY
Park House
Set in the grounds of the abbey, this is
a perfectly situated small B&B housed
in two converted former workers’
cottages. It is also home to the Abbey’s
owners, who welcome guests with tea
and delicious home-made cake.
Jervaulx Abbey, HG4 4PH; 01677 460
184; http://www.jervaulxabbey.com
MIDDLEHAM
Domus House moderate
One of a number of decent inns and
guest houses clustered around the
town’s square. This ivy-clad Georgian
house offers three ensuite rooms.
Market Place, DL8 4NR; 01969 623 497;
http://www.myspace.com/domushouse
The Black Swan moderate
This charming “olde worlde”17th-
century real-ale inn right by the castle
comes complete with log fires and oak
beams. The bedrooms, however, may
be a little chintzy for some tastes.
Market Place, DL8 4NP; 01969 622 221;
http://www.blackswan-middleham.co.uk
The White Swan moderate
Overlooking Market Square, the White
Swan subsumed the old post office
and underwent refurbishment, adding
more and a smart brasserie.
Market Place, DL8 4PE; 01969 622 093;
http://www.whiteswanhotel.co.ukBOLTON ABBEY
Devonshire Arms expensive
This country house has been in the
Devonshire family since 1753.
Furnished with antiques, it is gloriously
situated and offers every comfort,
including a spa, sauna, tennis courts,
and a range of good restaurants, too.
Bolton Abbey, BD23 6AJ; 01756 710
441; http://www.thedevonshirearms.co.uk5 Middleham
North Yorks; DL8 4QG
This historic town boasts an impressive
castle, two market places and a
racehorse training stables. Visitors
can watch the jockeys riding out in
the morning on the moors beyond
Middleham Castle (Oct–Mar: closed
Thu & Fri). This castle was from 1461
home to Richard, Duke of York, who
would ascend to the throne for a
brief reign as Richard III in 1483.
Chambers and lodgings were added
over time to the 12th-century keep
to create a more luxurious palace.
Take the A6108 northwest across
a 19th-century bridge over the River
Ure to pretty Leyburn, filled with craft
shops, galleries, a chocolatier and
a tea pottery. It’s also an excellent
place for walking. At the top of the
market place, follow signs for the
Leyburn Shawl, supposedly where MaryAbove Aysgarth Falls in the picturesque Lower
Wensleydale valleyBACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £1504 Jervaulx Abbey
North Yorks; HG4 4PH
Founded in 1156, this once-great
Cistercian monastery is today in
private hands, but allows public
access. Declared forfeit to the Crown
under Henry VIII (see p192), its roof
was stripped of lead and the church
destroyed by gunpowder. What
survived such vandalism is a place of
utter peace and charm, in a beautiful
wildflower meadow amidst the
Yorkshire Dales. Tour the remains of
this enchanting building including the
dormitory, kitchen, parlour, infirmary
and cloister. The home-made cakes in
the tea rooms are excellent, too.
ª Continue on A6108 to Middleham;
park for free on the cobbled square.Below The haunting ruins of Jervaulx Abbey in beautiful bucolic surroundingsQueen of Scots dropped her shawl in
her flight from Bolton Castle, where
she was imprisoned in 1538–9. Climb
the escarpment for a short walk and
great views across Wensleydale. Power
walkers can try the 11-km (7-mile) walk
to Bolton Castle (and get the bus back)- for instructions, visit http://www.dalesbus.
info/richmond/walk_5.htm.
ª From Leyburn take the A684 west
through the Yorkshire Dales National
Park to Hawes. Aysgarth Falls, on the
way, is a good place to stop for a picnic.