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Above Ancient wooden door at Carlisle’s
12th–14th-century castleBelow The remains of what was an earlier, larger version of Carlisle CathededralA two-hour walking tour
Start at the Railway Station 1 with its
imposing Tudor-Gothic-style façade. It
was designed in 1847 by Sir William
Tite, designer of the Bank of England
and London’s Royal Exchange. From the
station it is impossible to miss the
Citadel 2 (open Jul–Aug: Mon–Fri); its
oval East and West Towers were begun
in 1810–11 to a design by Thomas
Telford and contained courts and a
prison. The West Tower has oak-
panelled courtrooms, a grand jury
room and cells. Walk between the
towers up English St towards the city’s
shopping centre. At the centre of the
pedestrianized area is Carlisle Cross,
dated 1682. The tourist office is here,
housed in the Old Town Hall 3 which
was founded in 1122 and has been
rebuilt many times. Just outside stands
a “Victorian” pillar box marking the fact
that England ’s first such box was
erected in Carlisle in 1853. Turn right
out of the tourist office and enter grey
and red stone Carlisle Cathedral 4.
Admire its glorious interior, lit by
exquisite stained-glass windows, some
dating from the 14th century. Beneath
a stunning barrel-vaulted, starred
ceiling are excellent paintings, a carvedoak Antwerp triptych dating back to
1510 and 15th-century choir stalls.
Clustered around the cathedral are
some fine 17th-century buildings, such
as the Old Registry, dated 1699, The
Deanery with its defensive Pele tower
(see p209) and the Fratry, a 13th-century
monastic dining room. Turn left and left
into Abbey Street and go through the
wrought-iron gates to Old Tullie House
5 (open daily), a museum and gallery
housed in a Jacobean mansion dating
from 1689. Its collections are devoted
to local social history, archaeology,
wildlife, geology and fine arts. Leave by
the rear exit to find the Millennium
Gallery 6. This is actually a bright
subway running beneath the road, with
artifacts celebrating the city. These
include the 16th-century cursing stone,
recording the scathing words of the
Bishop of Glasgow aimed at the
marauding reivers of the borders (see
p209). Enter the Castle 7 by its 14th-
century gatehouse and portcullis onto
the 12th-century keep, with the dank
dungeons that once held Mary Queen
of Scots. Walk around the outside of
the castle and enter Bitts Park at the
junction with Castle Way. Cross the park
to the River Eden and climb the stepsVISITING CARLISLEParking
Exit M6 at junction 43, then drive down
A69 Rotary Way to Warwick Rd until you
see Lowther St. Turn right to The Lanes
car park on the left, or follow signs to
station for short- and long-stay parking
(pay-and-display car parks clearly
signed). There is street parking on Main
Street, Station Street and Market Place.
Tourist Information
Old Town Hall, Market Square, CA3 8JE;
01228 625 600; http://www.visitcumbria.com1 Carlisle
Cumbria; CA3 8JA
Streets of handsome terraces surround the ancient centre of this border
city, which is still intact, atmospheric and accessible behind the bland
store fronts of the pedestrian precinct. Neither chic nor cosmopolitan,
Carlisle is characterful, with a strong sense of civic pride and the small
but beautiful cathedral at its spiritual heart. Visitors won’t go hungry in
town, but the best gastronomic treats await in the nearby countryside.BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150WHERE TO STAYCARLISLE
Cornerways Guest House inexpensive
A conveniently-situated and good value
B&B. Not all rooms are ensuite. Serves full
English and continental breakfasts.
107 Warwick Road, CA1 1EA; 01228 521
733; http://www.cornerwaysbandb.co.uk
Number Thirty-One moderate
This award-winning guesthouse offers a
set dinner plus B&B, with menus based
on what is best and freshest that day.
31 Howard Place, CA1 1HR; 01228 597
080; http://www.number31.co.uk
AROUND CARLISLE
Willowbeck Lodge moderate
A purpose-built Scandinavian-style lodge
offering breakfast with Craster kippers,
free-range eggs and Scotch pancakes.
Lambley Bank, Scotby, CA4 8BX; 5 km
(3 miles) east on A69; 01228 513 607;
http://www.willowbeck-lodge.com