199

Above Colourful and quirky independent

coffee shop, Cockermouth

of Eden Bridge. To the right stands the
high-rise Civic Centre; to the left,
hidden to all but historical imagination,
the course of Hadrian’s Wall, along
Stanwix Bank on the far side of the
Eden. Head back into the town centre
along Rickergate to pass the
glass-roofed Victorian
Market Hall 8 , built
in 1890, and return
through the precinct
to the station.
ª Leave via A6
(Lowther Street). Take
first exit on roundabout
onto A595, turn left at B5299,
then branch left to Uldale. Take B5291
signed Bassenthwaite/Keswick and
A66. At roundabout take B5089 into
Cockermouth and join B5292 in centre.

Whinlatter

Forest Park sign

2 Cockermouth
Cumbria; CA13 9NP
At the meeting of the rivers Derwent
and Cocker, this small market town,
the birthplace of William Wordsworth
(1770–1850), is easily explored on foot.
Step inside the Georgian Wordsworth
House (closed Sun) townhouse, where
the poet spent his early years, to
see what life was like in the 1770s.
Cooking demonstrations and tastings,
are held in the kitchen, and the
walled garden is planted with
traditional varieties of flowers, fruit
and vegetables. The mostly ruined

3 Whinlatter

Forest Park

Cumbria; CA12 5TW

The road climbs through England’s

only true mountain forest (planted for

timber after WW1), affording fabulous

views of the Lake District and across

the water of the Solway Firth into

Scotland. See breeding ospreys via

CCTV, or feeding siskins and the shy

red squirrels scampering over the

feeding station. The Visitors’ Centre

(www.forestry.gov.uk/whinlatterhome;

01229 860 373) has details of woodland

walks, or go mountain biking on the

longest purpose-built trail in the Lake

District, the Altura Trail. Hire bikes and

clothing from Cyclewise Whinlatter

(www.cyclewise.co.uk; 017687 78711).

ª Return through High Lorton and

turn left on to B5289 to Buttermere.

There is a car park in the village.

Cockermouth Castle, best viewed from

the riverside, is only opened to the

public during the Summer Festival in

July. There are antiques shops on

Station Street, and real-ale drinkers

should book a tour of 19th-

century Jennings Brewery

(www.jenningsbrewery.

co.uk; 0845 1297 185).

ª Leave on the B5292

for Lorton. Take left

branch to stay on B5292

to Whinlatter Forest.

DRIVE 19: The Poetry of the Lakes

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

EAT AND DRINK

CARLISLE

La Pergola inexpensive

Family-run Italian restaurant offering

tried and trusted fare in a great location.

28 Castle Street, CA3 8TP; 01228 534

084; http://www.ristorantelapergola.co.uk

The Spice Enterprise inexpensive

In a former pub, this place serves staple

dishes and interesting specials – chilli

lime-infused grilled king prawns, rabbit

with pickling spices and yoghurt sauce.

There are Fairtrade and organic wines,

and children are welcome.

Briar Bank, CA3 9SN; 01228 599 888;

http://www.thespiceenterprise.co.uk

La Mezzaluna inexpensive

This Italian restaurant serves traditional

dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner,

including vegetarian options.

6 The Crescent, CA1 1QW; 01228 534

472; http://www.lamezzalunacarlisle.co.uk

Alexandros inexpensive

Small, intimate restaurant offering an

authentic Greek menu with a few

imaginative modern twists.

68 Warwick Road, CA1 1DR; 01228 592

227; http://www.thegreek.co.uk

COCKERMOUTH

The Bitter End inexpensive

This friendly real-ale pub with in-house

brewery serves traditional sandwiches,

steak-and-ale pie and fish and chips.

Kirkgate, CA13 9PJ; 01900 828 993;

http://www.bitterend.co.uk

Old Stackyard Tearooms inexpensive

A lovely place to enjoy award-winning

home-made snacks and light meals.

Wellington Farm, CA13 0QU (just off the

A66/A5086 roundabout); 01900 822

777; http://www.wellingtonjerseys.co.uk

Quince and Medlar moderate

Offering an inventive vegetarian menu

with organic wines and great fruit drinks,

this restaurant is located close to the

castle in a superb Georgian building.

13 Castlegate, CA13 9EU; 01900 823 579

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