200
5 Honister Pass
Cumbria; CA12 5XN
The drive across Honister Pass is simply
glorious, passing skipping streams and
rushing torrents, tough grass slopes
and rock-studded scree patches, and
everywhere shaggy Herdwick sheep.
On the B5289, Honister Slate Mine
(open daily; 017687 77230; http://www.honister-
slate-mine.co.uk) is Britain’s last working
slate mine and produces traditional
Westmoreland green slate. It offers6 Bowder Stone
Grange, Cumbria
Weighing 2,000 tons and standing
some 9 m (30 ft) high, this stone, you
might suppose, had simply broken
loose from the rock face – but it is notThe Lady of the Lake
Mary Robinson, the pretty daughter
of the landlord at the Fish Hotel, was
widely known as the “Beauty of
Buttermere”. In 1802 she married the
Hon. Alexander Augustus Hope,
Lieutenant-Colonel of the 14th
Regiment of Foot. However, he was
really John Hatfield, an imposter and
bigamist and was hanged in 1803 in
Carlisle for forgery. Her story was the
inspiration for the novel by author
and broadcaster Sir Melvyn Bragg,
The Maid of Buttermere.4 Buttermere
Cumbria; CA13 9UZ
This hamlet is scenically situated
beneath looming lakeland pikes and
crags between tranquil Buttermere
Lake and larger Crummock Water. Try
the eminently walkable footpath –
allow 2–3 hours – around Buttermere
(meaning “lake of the dairy pastures”);
usually there’s a welcome ice-cream
van at the end of the walk. It is also a
short walk from the village to the
spectacular Scale Force, the highest
waterfall in the Lake District, with a
single drop of 52 m (170 ft).
ª Continue along the B5289 over
Honister Pass to the mine.Below A visitor from Scotland, the colossal Bowder Stone, GrangeAbove left Traditional water launch, Derwent
Water, near Keswick Above right Panoramic
view over Keswick, Derwent Water and the FellsBACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150four daily 90-minute guided tours
within the 18 km (11 miles) of tunnels.
See the vast caverns being worked,
and learn about the extraction and
processing of slate (booking essential).
ª Carry along B5289 to Bowder Stone.
Note the double stone bridge into
Grange village, but don’t cross in high
summer, when the village is packed.
VISITING KESWICKParking
There is pay parking by the theatre on
the lake and at various well-signed
sites around the town.
Boating
At Derwent Water Marina, west off the
A66, hire kayaks, rowing boats, sail boats
and windsurfers, or have some lessons.
(Portinscale, CA12 5RF; 01768772 912;
http://www.derwentwatermarina.co.uk)WHERE TO STAYAROUND BUTTERMERE
New House Farm moderate–expensive
This top-notch 17th-century guest
house located on B5289 to Buttermere
offers impressive wood-panelled rooms.
Lorton, Cockermouth, CA13 9UU; 07841
159 818; http://www.newhouse-farm.com
AROUND HONISTER PASS
Langstrath Country Inn inexpensive
There are eight very nice ensuite rooms
in this relaxed, attractive, walker-friendly
inn just off the B5289 after Honister
Slate Mine. It has bags of personality
and serves great food – try the local
lamb, Cumbrian cheeses and ales.
Stonethwaite, Borrowdale, CA12 5XG;
017687 77239; http://www.thelangstrath.com
AROUND KESWICK
Swinside Lodge moderate
This Georgian country house, near Stair
on the west shore of Derwent Water,
offers seven good rooms with great
views. The daily changing menu based
on fresh local ingredients includes
home-made bread, soups, ice cream
and Cumbrian cheeses.
Newlands, CA12 5UE; 017687 72948;
http://www.swinsidelodge-hotel.co.uk