Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

(Tina Meador) #1

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0 Ambleside
Cumbria; LA22 9BS
A favourite destination for walkers,
Ambleside lies at the heart of the Lake
District National Park and abounds in
pubs, restaurants and hotels. It was
here that Wordsworth carried out his
job as distributor of stamps. Visit the
Glass Blowing Workshop (see right),
and the tiny National Trust office in
the two-storey Bridge House, built
on the old packhorse bridge. In this
4 x 2 m (13 x 6 ft) former apple store,
Mr and Mrs Rigg brought up six
children in the 1850s.
ª Start off on A591, turn right for A593

9 Rydal Mount
Rydal, near Ambleside; LA22 9LU
William and Mary Wordsworth moved
to 16th-century Rydal Mount (closed
Jan; Mon & Tue in winter & Dec 25–26;
015394 33002; http://www.rydalmount.co.uk) in
1813, with three of their children (two
had died the previous year), William’s
sister Dorothy, and sister-in-law Sara. It
was to be his home for the last 37 years
of his life. Use a guide leaflet to tour the
house and garden and see touching
relics such as the poet’s leather picnic
box, and correspondence concerning
his appointment as Poet Laureate. Walk
to nearby Rydal Water, one of
Wordsworth’s favourite places.
ª Continue on the A591 to Ambleside,
find pay parking on right.

BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

towards Coniston, fork left onto
B5286 to Hawkshead. Park in pay
car park outside village.

WHERE TO STAY

AMBLESIDE
Cote How Organic Guest House
moderate
This guest house has a beautiful setting,
six ensuite rooms and serves organic,
sustainable and Fairtrade produce.
Rydal, LA22 9LW; 015394 32765;
http://www.cotehow.co.uk
Barnes Fell B&B moderate
A boutique B&B with three delightful
ensuite rooms. Breakfasts feature
organic produce and local bacon.
Low Gale, LA22 0BD; 015394 33311;
http://www.barnesfell.co.uk

AROUND HILL TOP
Ees Wyke Country House moderate
This lovely Georgian country house
overlooks Esthwaite Water.
Near Sawrey, LA22 0JZ; 11 km (7 miles)
south from Hill Top; 015394 36393;
http://www.eeswyke.co.uk

VISITING AMBLESIDE
Parking
Pay-and-display car park on the right
on the drive into town.
Tourist Information
Central Buildings, Market Cross
LA22 9BS; 015394 32582;
http://www.amblesideonline.co.uk

q Hawkshead
Cumbria; LA22 0NT
This is a charming village, with pretty
cottages, an old Court House, and
the Beatrix Potter Gallery (closed Fri)
devoted to the children’s author, with
some of her original artwork. For
eight years from 1779, Wordsworth
was one of 100 boys attending
Hawkshead Grammar School (closed
Nov–Mar; Sun am). You can see where
he (allegedly) carved his name on a
desk. Nearby is the vast Esthwaite
Water, described in Wordsworth’s
Prelude as “our little lake”, stocked with
fish and popular with anglers. Permits,

The Lake Poets
The first mention of the Lake School
of poetry – Romantic poets who
lived in the Lake District – appeared
in 1817. These were Samuel Taylor
Coleridge, Robert Southey, Thomas
de Quincey and William Wordsworth,
although Wordsworth alone was
born here. Much of his poetry was
confessional and autobiographical –
highly original in its day. His Daffodils,
a delirious evocation of spring beauty
in the Lakes, is probably his best-
known poem and one of the most
loved in the English language.

Below top left Terrace of Victorian stone
B&Bs, Ambleside Below top right Rydal
Water, one of the smallest lakes in the area
Below left The Old Corn Mill, Ambleside,
dating back to 1680 Below right Rydal
Mount, Wordsworth’s final home
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