Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

205

EAT AND DRINK

BRANTWOOD

Jumping Jenny Coffee House and

Restaurant inexpensive

Enjoy lunch on the terrace with sublime

views over Coniston in this restaurant-

café, located in the former stables in

Brantwood grounds. The menu

includes home-made soups, flans,

casseroles, pasta, cakes and pastries.

Brantwood, LA21 8AD; 015394

41715; http://www.jumpingjenny.com

CONISTON

Black Bull Inn inexpensive

This old coaching inn has played host

to poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge, artist

JMW Turner and the late Donald

Campbell, who died on Coniston in an

attempt to set a new water speed

record. On offer are sandwiches, baked

potatoes and hearty cooked meals

such as Cumberland sausage, shoulder

of lamb, and haddock and chips. Wash

it all down with ales such as its own

Bluebird. It also has a few rooms.

Coppermines Rd, LA21 8HL; 015394

41133; http://www.conistonbrewery.com

t Brantwood
Cumbria; LA21 8AD;
John Ruskin (1819–1900), artist, writer,
poet, critic and social reformer, lived at
Brantwood (open daily; mid-Nov–mid-
Mar: closed Mon–Tue; 015394 41396; http://www.
brantwood.org.uk) from 1871. The
house is so imbued with his
personality that it
feels as though
he has just
gone out for a
stroll. His own watercolours
and drawings are hung with
those of other prominent
painters. Views across
Coniston, especially from
the turret, are sublime and there are
wonderful gardens. The best time to
visit is in late May, when the azaleas
are at their showiest. Aged 81, Ruskin
died of influenza and is buried at
St Andrew’s Church, Coniston.
ª Head north, turning left around the
lake to join the B5285 to Coniston and
pay parking at Coniston Pier.

Far left Peaceful yachts on Coniston Water, in

the heart of the Lakeland Fells Left Kayaking

lesson on Coniston Water

DRIVE 19: The Poetry of the Lakes

DAY TRIP OPTIONS

Carlisle, Keswick and Ambleside are all

good bases for exploring the sublime

countryside and following in the

footsteps of the Lakeland poets.

War and Peace

Take a tour around Carlisle 1 , a border

city often attacked by raiders from the

north. See the citadel, castle and

cathedral. Then set out on the glorious

drive southwest to Cockermouth 2 ,

having a look at the castle and an ice

cream at the Old Stackyard Tearooms.

Time permitting, head to Whinlatter

Forest Park 3 for a walk or a bike ride

in the quiet woodland countryside.

Follow driving instructions to Whinlatter

Forest Park. Continue towards Keswick

on B5292 and return to Carlisle up the

east side of Bassenthwaite Lake.

Lakeland Stone

Based at Keswick 7 , enjoy the lake

location and Castlerigg Stone Circle,

then set off to climb the Bowder

Stone 6. Head for Honister Pass 5

and Honister Slate Mine, the last

working slate mine in the UK. Drive

on to Buttermere 4 ; enjoy a picnic

and walk around the lake admiring

the pikes and crags. Head north to

Lorton and through Whinlatter Forest

Park 3 to return to Keswick.

Follow the drive’s instructions in reverse

from Keswick to Whinlatter Forest Park.

Then head east back to Keswick.

Wander o’er Vales and Hills

Follow the Wordsworth trail from

Grasmere 8 , for the church and

cottage with links to the poet, then

continue to Rydal Mount 9 and the

nearby lake – two of his favourite

places. Ambleside 0 , where the

poet worked – is a good place for

lunch. Next go on to Hawkshead q,

where Wordsworth was schooled, to

enjoy a walk or go fishing, before

pushing on past Hill Top w, across

the lake on the ferry and returning

up Windermere’s eastern shore.

Follow the drive’s instructions to Hill Top

and across Lake Windermere. Turn left

on A592 through Bowness to return to

Ambleside or Grasmere.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

y Coniston

Cumbria; LA21 8AJ

Situated at the head of Coniston Water

• third-largest of the central Cumbrian
  lakes – this village was once a centre
  for the local copper-mining industry,
  which boomed in the 18th and
  19th centuries. It is overlooked
  by the 802 m
  (2,631 ft) fell,
  the Old Man of
  Coniston, and is
  also close to Tarn Hows. The
  graceful Victorian steam
  yacht the Gondola (Apr–Oct;
  http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk)) – so
  called because of its high
  prow – glides across the water from
  Coniston Pier to Brantwood jetty. The
  45-minute round trip gives passengers
  the chance to appreciate the beauty
  of the lake amid the surrounding
  Coniston Fells. Or hire a kayak, canoe
  or rowing boat from Coniston Boating
  Centre (015394 41366), also located
  near the pier, to explore the lake.

Railway insignia,

Haverthwaite Station

SHOPPING IN CONISTON

Buy some delectable fudge – hand-

made from local dairy ingredients –

from the Coniston Fudge Co (Post

Office, LA21 8DU; 015394 41259;

http://www.conistonfudge.co.uk). Flavours

include Coniston Cookie Crunch and

Ginger Biscuit. Best of all, visitors can

taste before buying.