Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

(Tina Meador) #1

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Above The Bailey at Alnwick Castle, used in
the Harry Potter films

VISITING ALNWICK
Parking
Turn right just before Bondgate archway
onto Greenwall Road for car park.
Tourist Information
The Shambles, NE66 1TN; 01665 511 333;
http://www.visitnorthumberland.com/alnwick

VISITING LINDISFARNE ISLAND
Tide Information
Look for tables displayed on posts; 01289
389 200; http://www.visitnorthumberland.com

4 Alnwick
Northumberland; NE66 1TN
This attractive market town is a compact warren of cobbled streets, old
stone buildings and narrow alleys tucked between its main attractions,
Alnwick Castle and Garden. It is also ideally located for countryside or
coastal trips. Allow at least half a day to tour the town and its sights.

BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

WHERE TO STAY

ALNWICK
Tate House B&B inexpensive
Three rooms, two ensuite, in a late-
Victorian house just outside the centre.
11 Bondgate Without, NE66 1PR;
01665 604 661
Oaks Hotel inexpensive-moderate
There are 12 comfortable rooms in
this friendly pub-hotel on the mini
roundabout on leaving Bondgate.
South Road, NE66 2PN; 01665 510 014;
http://www.theoakshotel.co.uk
White Swan moderate–expensive
This 300-year-old coaching inn, with
57 bedrooms, has a handy central
location, good food and guest parking.
Bondgate Within, NE66 1TD; 01665 602
109; thewhiteswan.classiclodges.co.uk

AROUND DUNSTANBURGH
The Mason’s Arms inexpensive
This welcoming inn is 3 km (2 miles)
north of Denwick on the B1340. It has
17 comfortable ensuite rooms and
serves good pub fare in the restaurant.
Rennington, NE66 3RX; 01665 577 275;
http://www.masonsarms.net

A two-hour walking tour
From the car park head down
Greenwell Road to the 15th-century
Bondgate Tower 1 (or Hotspur Tower),
originally one of four town gateways.
Walk up Bondgate Within, past the
Market Place and Cross and
Northumberland Hall on the left, into
Narrowgate, curving round to the
right. Turn left down Bailiffgate, with its
charming old houses, and visit the
Bailiffgate Museum 2 (closed Mon;
http://www.bailiffgatemuseum.co.uk), in the
former St Mary’s Church and dedicated
to the people and places of the area.
Keen walkers can continue down
Ratten Row for 1 km (half a mile) to
explore Hulne Park 3 , a vast area of
estate forestry, farm and sawmills. Head
for 13th-century Carmelite Hulne
Friary, in the distance. Otherwise, turn
left onto Northumberland St and pass
Pottergate Tower into Dispensary St.
Go left on Clayport St, up Market St,
and right to arrive back on Bondgate
Within. Return through the Tower,
down Bondgate Without. After passing
the War Memorial on the left, across
from the Percy Tenantry Lion Column,
look for the 19th-century Alnwick
Station building, home to Barter Books
4 , a terrific second-hand bookshop
with a model train which shuttles
around on top of the shelves. Return to
the car park on Greenwell Road.

A path from behind the Greenwell
Road car park leads up to Alnwick
Castle 5 (Apr–Oct: open daily; http://www.
alnwickcastle.com), the second-largest
inhabited castle in the country and
seat of the Dukes of Northumberland
since 1309. Fans of the first two Harry
Potter films will recognize the exterior
as Hogwarts school. Dominating the
town, the castle dates from the 11th
century but has seen major expansion
since the14th century. Visitors can
tour the grand state rooms, a library, a
fabulous Renaissance drawing room
and an art collection which includes
works by Van Dyke and Canaletto.
Walk back down the path to delight-
ful Alnwick Garden 6 (open daily; http://www.
alnwickgarden.com). In 1997 Jane Percy,
Duchess of Northumberland, decided
to bring an overgrown garden close to
the castle back to life. it is still a work in
progress, created by Belgian garden
designers Jacques and Peter Wirtz.
The Grand Cascade, visible on entry, is
the largest water feature of its kind in
the UK. From the sweet to the sinister,
the Rose Garden to the Poison
Garden, and the Tree Walk for children,
there is much to enjoy. Return down
the path to the car park.
ª Leave Alnwick on Bondgate Without
turning left on B1340. After Denwick,
follow signs to Dunstanburgh, fork right
to Craster to park. Walk to the castle.

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