224
Above Victorian bandstand in the seafront
park at St AndrewsWHERE TO STAYST ANDREWS
Doune House inexpensive
Close to the Old Course and the centre,
this Victorian townhouse B&B has nice,
modern rooms with tartan touches.
5 Murray Place, KY16 9AP; 01334 475
195; http://www.dounehouse.com
The Macdonald Rusacks Hotel
moderate–expensive
The Rusacks is set beside the Old
Course and West Sands, the beach
featured in the film Chariots of Fire.
Pilmour Links, KY16 9JQ; 0844 879 9136;
http://www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk/rusacks
ANSTRUTHER
Laggan House inexpensive
Close to the coastal path, this B&B is
comfortable and characterful. Rooms
have sea views and there’s a garden.
The Cooperage, Cellardyke, KY10 3AW;
01333 311 170
Craw’s Nest Hotel moderate
Ask for a room with a sea view at this
3-star hotel, which is close to the 9-
hole golf course. It’s also a good
choice for families, with its attractive
gardens and friendly staff.
Bankwell Road, KY10 3DA; 01333 310
691; www symphonyhotels.co.ukVISITING ST ANDREWS
Parking
There is parking by the harbour.
Tourist Information
70 Market St, KY16 9NU; 01334 472 021
Playing golf
There are seven links (seaside) golf
courses. A daily ballot decides who
plays on the Old Course. For all courses,
contact St Andrews Links (01334 466
666; http://www.standrews.org.uk).1 St Andrews
Fife; KY16
The Old Course, the oldest golf course
in the world, attracts thousands of
visitors to St Andrews each year. Yet it
was religion that first made the city
famous. Legend tells that, in the 4th
century, St Rule brought the relics of
St Andrew from Constantinople to
Scotland and kept them in a chapel
here, founding the city. They were
moved to St Andrews Cathedral^ (open
daily), after it was built in 1160. Nearby
St Andrews Castle (joint ticket with
cathedral) was the residence of senior
clergy. Both buildings are now ruined
but they still make an imposing pair.
Visitors can peer into the castle’s
bottle-shaped dungeon, into which
prisoners were dropped with no hope
of release. The university, founded in
1410, is the oldest in Scotland. It is
possible to visit two of the colleges –
St Salvator’s in North St and St Mary’s
in South St. The latter has a thorn tree,
supposedly planted by Mary Queen
of Scots.
ª From harbour car park drive uphill
to North St (A917) and turn left. Turn
right onto B9131, then left onto B940
following signs for Scotland’s Secret
Bunker. There is parking on site.BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150Highland Fling
Highland Games are an established
part of the summer scene in
Scotland. Contestants take part in
events such as “tossing the caber”
(throwing a large wooden post),
swinging the hammer, and piping
and dancing competitions. They have
their origins in ancient gatherings
such as wappinschaws – where clans
gathered to test their military skills.
Modern, formal Games date to 1820
and the revival of Highland culture
encouraged by writer Sir Walter Scott.2 Scotland’s Secret Bunker
Crown Buildings, Troywood; KY16 8QH
Enter the secret world of surveillance
in this former military bunker, hidden
far beneath an isolated farmhouse.
Scotland’s Secret Bunker (mid-Mar–
Oct: open daily; http://www.secretbunker.co.uk),
encased in thick concrete, was to
have been the HQ of operations, had
the UK come under nuclear attack
during the Cold War. In the vast
labyrinth, visitors can see the basic
dormitories, communications
equipment and the little chapel.
ª Return to the B940 and turn right,
then right again to take A917. Drive
along coast road to Anstruther. Park
by harbour.Below Anstruther Harbour, once busy with the Scottish herring fleet Below top right The Isle of May,
seen from the cliffs at Anstruther Below right Anstruther beach, sheltered by the harbour walls