Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

(Tina Meador) #1

225


Below Beautiful scenery on the Anstruther to Crail coastal path


A two-hour walking tour
From the car park, bear left (if facing
the harbour) and walk past the RNLI
lifeboat station to visit the Scottish
Fisheries Museum 1 (open daily; http://www.
scotfishmuseum.org) telling the history
of the local fishing industry. Walk
along James St by the shore. When
the 16th-century Tolbooth and council
chamber is visible, carry along John St
and then George St, keeping the sea
to the right. Look for clues that the
houses were for fishermen: some
upper windows have posts used for
drying fishing nets. Other properties
have external staircases (good for
drying nets and creels) and Dutch-
style gables on the roofs (Holland
was a historic trading partner).
Walk past Cellardyke Harbour 2 ,
after which there is a caravan park on
the left-hand side. Out to sea lies the
Isle of May, on which stands a ruined
12th-century monastery and the
oldest lighthouse in Scotland (1635).
A National Nature Reserve, the island
is home to seals and colonies of
puffins, guillemots and razorbills.
Soon after Cellardyke, the path turns
into a grassy track and passes a pig
farm on the left. Go through a gate
next to a seat, then another gate.
Look out for fishing boats bobbing on


the sea. To the left are fields where, in
summer, the long grasses and wild
flowers come alive with clouds of
bees, butterflies and other insects.
Eventually, climb a few steps over a
low wall, and go straight ahead – look
out for the cormorants that often
perch on rocks by the shore. Cross a
tiny bridge above a brook and carry
on beside the sea. Climb a few more
steps over a wall, and follow the shore
to a large outcrop of rocks 3 – the
layers of sediment deposited over the
centuries can be seen in the exposed
stone. Around a corner, the path
enters a grassy area with lots of gorse
growing on the left.
Cross another bridge over a brook to
see the village of Crail in the distance. If
the tide is out, the pretty shell beach
4 here is a good place for a breather,
with large rocks as convenient seats.
For those with stamina, the path
goes on to Crail, otherwise
retrace the walk back to the car
park for some well-earned fish
and chips by the harbour.
ª Drive back to A917 and follow
to Pittenweem. Then turn right
into Charles St; follow the road
taking the right fork and then turn
left onto B9171. Turn right for
castle and car park.

EAT AND DRINK

ST ANDREWS
The Glass House inexpensive
This laid-back restaurant in the centre
of town serves pizzas, pastas and salads.
80 North Street, KY16 9AH; 01334 473
673; http://www.houserestaurants.com
The Doll’s House moderate
Popular restaurant serving Scottish-
French dishes such as Scottish lamb with
puy lentils, and sticky toffee pudding.
3 Church Square, KY16 9NN; 01334 477
422; http://www.houserestaurants.com
ANSTRUTHER
Anstruther Fish Bar inexpensive
This legendary fish and chip shop
consistently wins awards for its food.
42–4 Shore Street, KY10 3AQ; 01333
310 518; http://www.anstrutherfishbar.co.uk
The Cellar moderate
This restaurant serves modern Scottish
dishes, with an emphasis on seafood.
24 East Green, KY10 3AA; 01333 310
378; closed Sun; lunch served Fri & Sat;
http://www.cellaranstruther.co.uk

3 Anstruther
Fife; KY10
A charming fishing village typical of the East Neuk (corner) of Fife,
Anstruther was once one of the busiest ports in Scotland. The harbour
now mainly holds yachts, but the town still has plenty of character with
its pubs, award-winning fish and chip shop, and charming buildings.
Visitors can also walk the Fife Coastal Path, enjoy a multitude of outdoor
activities, or take a boat to the Isle of May to see the wildlife.


DRIVE 22: The Kingdom of Fife


Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

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ANSTRUTHER ACTIVITIES

For canoeing, abseiling, climbing, cycling
and archery, try East Neuk Outdoors
(01333 311 929; http://www.eastneukoutdoors.
co.uk). For boat trips to the Isle of May
buy tickets from Anstruther Pleasure
Trips from the harbour (01333 310 054;
http://www.isleofmayferry.com).

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