Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

227

7 Loch Leven
By Kinross; KY13 8UF
Loch Leven is famed for the lonely
castle (Apr–Sep: open daily), perched on
an island in its waters, only accessible
by ferry. Mary Queen of Scots was
imprisoned here on the order of
Elizabeth I. While here, Mary was
forced to abdicate in favour of her
son, James VI. She escaped after a year
with the help of her jailer, but was
locked up again at Fotheringay in
England. The 14th-century castle is
now a ruin, but full of atmosphere.
The loch is also noted for its rich bird
life. Head south on B996, then left on
B9097 to the Royal Society for the
Protection of Birds Vane Farm (open
daily), with nature trails and viewing
points – from here look for regular
visitors such as pink-footed geese.

8 Culross

Culross; KY12 8JH

Culross (pronounced “koo-ross”) was

one of Scotland’s largest ports in the

16th century: ships took coal and salt

from Fife to the Low Countries and

returned with red pantiles, which were

used as roofing. This once prosperous

town, with its Dutch-influenced

architecture and cobbled streets, is

almost perfectly preserved. Main sights

include Culross Palace (Apr–May, & Sep,

Oct: open Thu–Mon; Jun–Aug: open daily),

which was built for a local merchant;

and The Study (joint admission with

palace) a 17th-century tower house. It

is also worth walking up to the ruined

abbey, founded by the Cistercians in

the 13th century, which can be found

on the hills above town.

EAT AND DRINK

AROUND KELLIE CASTLE

The Inn at Lathones moderate

This former coaching inn has a popular

restaurant, serving traditional dishes

such as game suet pudding with root

vegetable mash. Take B942, then B941

to Largoward, then right on A915.

Largoward, KY9 1JE; 01334 840 494;

http://www.theinn.co.uk

Sangsters moderate–expensive

This Michelin-starred restaurant serves

fine Scottish produce such as venison,

crab, beef and salmon. Vegetarians

catered for with notice. Take the coastal

road (A917) from Pittenweem to Elie.

51 High St, Elie, KY9 1BZ; 01333 331 001;

http://www.sangsters.co.uk; closed Sun eve,

Mon, Tue & Wed, Sat lunch; best to book

AROUND FIFE FOLK MUSEUM

The Peat Inn moderate–expensive

Award winning food at this country

inn, with the focus on fresh Scottish

produce. Enjoy imaginative dishes

such as cannelloni of langoustines and

scallops. From Ceres, head north on

B939, then right on B940 to Peat Inn.

Peat Inn, KY15 5LH; 01334 840 206;

http://www.thepeatinn.co.uk

Above The 17th-century Town House, an

example of Dutch-style architecture in Culross

Above Falkland Palace gardens, home to Britain’s
oldest tennis court

Queen of Scots was also very fond of it.
As well as touring the palace itself, with
its Flemish tapestries and painted
ceilings, visitors can visit the gardens
and the Real Tennis court, built in 1539.
ª Return to A912, turn left to A91. Turn
left again, then merge onto B996 to
Milnathort. Turn left onto A992, then
straight onto B996 into centre of
Kinross. Turn left onto Burns Beggs St,
then right onto Pier Rd to the car park
for the ferry to Loch Leven Castle.

DRIVE 22: The Kingdom of Fife

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

ª From Loch Leven Pier, return to B996

and turn right, then left onto Station Rd.

Continue on to the A977 and follow it all

the way to Kincardine, then head left to

join A985 (towards Forth Road Bridge).

After 6 km (4 miles) turn right down

Gallows Loan to Culross. Park in the

town centre near the palace.

DAY TRIP OPTIONS

St Andrews is an excellent base from

which to explore Fife.

Royal and Ordinary Fife

Spend the morning in St Andrews

1 , with its famous royal golf course,

university and ancient cathedral.

Stroll along the golden beach, then

drive to pretty Ceres to visit the Fife

Folk Museum 5 and gain an insight

into the lives of the locals. Drive on

to the Stuart monarchs’ wonderful

Renaissance Falkland Palace 6.

From St Andrews take A915, then B939

to Ceres. Follow drive instructions to

Falkland. Retrace journey to return.

Family Fun in the East Neuk

In St Andrews 1 , visit the castle

dungeon and then drive to Scotland’s

Secret Bunker 2 , with lots for kids to

enjoy. Next, visit Anstruther 3 for

canoeing, cycling, a boat trip or just

relaxing on the beach. If more

excitement is needed, carry on to go

ghost hunting at Kellie Castle 4.

Follow the drive instructions as far as

Kellie Castle. T o return, head back to

B9171, turn left and carry on to B9131.

Then turn left here to St Andrews.