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Above St Mary’s Catholic Church by the River
Ness, InvernessBelow The imposing west towers of Gothic Inverness Cathedral, built in 1866WHERE TO STAYINVERNESS
Trafford Bank Guest House moderate
Enjoy chic, designer rooms at this 5-star
B&B. There are features such as Victorian
roll-top baths, DVD players and luxury
toiletries – and sherry decanters.
96 Fairfield Road, IV3 5LL; 01463 241 414;
http://www.traffordbankguesthouse.co.uk
Glenmoriston Town House Hotel
moderate–expensive
Crisp cotton sheets and sleek rooms are
on offer at this boutique riverside hotel,
which also has good restaurants. Rooms
have modern televisions and free Wi-fi.
20 Ness Bank, IV2 4SF; 01463 223 777;
http://www.contrastbrasserie.co.uk
AROUND CAWDOR CASTLE
Sunny Brae Hotel moderate
Follow B9090 to the seafront in Nairn
for comfortable ensuite rooms, some
with views of the Moray Firth, and an
attractive guest lounge.
Marine Road, Nairn, IV12 4EA; 01667
452 309; http://www.sunnybraehotel.comAROUND ELGIN
Milton of Grange Farmhouse
inexpensive
There are three ensuite rooms and
lovely views of the countryside at this
working arable farm. Guests can enjoy a
full Scottish breakfast, or a fruit and
cheese platter. From Elgin, take A96 to
Forres, then turn right on B9011.
Forres, Moray, IV36 2TR; 01309 676 360;
http://www.forres-accommodation.co.uk1 Inverness
Highland; IV1
Sitting serenely on the River Ness,
Inverness is acknowledged as the
capital of the Highlands. The river is
flanked on one side by a substantial
pink stone castle, built in the 19th
century on the site of a much earlier
structure destroyed by the Jacobite
army after 1746. On the other side
stands Inverness Cathedral, with
some fine stained-glass windows. The
City Museum (open Mon–Sat) contains
a variety of items associated with the
Highlands. Visitors can also enjoy a
cruise on Loch Ness (www.jacobite.co.uk)
and learn more about Loch Ness
wildlife including, of course, the
mythical monster. Buses to the boats
leave from Inverness Bus Station.
ª From Rose St car park drive onto
A82 roundabout, turning right, then
join A9 south for a short distance,
turning left on B9006. The Culloden
Visitor Centre is just off the road and
clearly signposted; there is a car park.BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN
2 Culloden
Culloden Moor, Inverness; IV2 5EU
The wind never seems to stop blowing
across the bleak expanse of Culloden
Moor where, on 16 April 1746, the last
battle of the Jacobite Risings took
place. It lasted only an hour, but
heralded the end of the distinctive
clan system, bringing many changes
to Highland Scotland. The excellent
Visitor Centre (open daily; http://www.nts.org.
uk ) gives the historical context to the
battle, together with memorabilia
such as Jacobite medals and first-3 Cawdor Castle
Cawdor, Nairn; IV12 5RD;
Although Cawdor Castle’s (May–Oct:
open daily; http://www.cawdorcastle.com) only
associations with the real Macbeth
were in Shakespeare’s imagination,
that does not lessen its appeal. It was
built in the late 14th century, long after
Macbeth had died, and retains a
medieval feel with stone staircases,
atmospheric passageways and a
dungeon. It is still home to the Cawdor
family and photos mingle with Flemish
tapestries, four-poster beds and
artworks by Landseer and Edward Lear.
There are several colourful gardens –
Walled, Flower and Wild – which are
delightful places to explore.
ª Continue on B9090 to Nairn
(consider a detour to the beach). Thenhand accounts from those involved in
the events. Visitors can also walk the
battlefield for a soldier’s-eye view.
ª Continue on B9006, bearing right
onto B9091. Turn right onto B9090 to
Cawdor Castle.VISITING INVERNESS
Parking
For long-term parking close to the castle
try the Rose St car park, off A82/B865.
Tourist Information
Castle Wynd, IV2 3BJ; 0845 2255 121The Mystery of Loch Ness
Stories of a monster lurking in Loch
Ness date back to St Columba, who is
said to have saved a man from the
beast. However, modern sightings
started in 1933, when a creature with
a long neck was reported in the loch.
Murky photographs and film of the
creature have appeared: many
consider them to be hoaxes, others
are sure that Nessie exists. Scientific
expeditions have been unable to find
the beast, and the mystery lingers on.