Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

249

EAT AND DRINK

INVERNESS

Riva inexpensive

This smart Italian restaurant offers classic

dishes such as mushroom risotto, pasta

with meatballs and pizzas.

4–6 Ness Walk, IV3 5NE; 01463 237 377;

http://www.rivainverness.co.uk; closed Sun

lunch

The Kitchen on the River

inexpensive–moderate

This relaxed, contemporary restaurant

beside the River Ness serves modern

Scottish food. Imaginative dishes

include pheasant and venison patties,

or breast of chicken stuffed with haggis.

There are vegetarian options, too.

15 Huntly Street, IV3 5PR; 01463 259

119; http://www.kitchenrestaurant.co.uk

The Rocpool moderate

This cool city centre brasserie offers

fusion food, made with as much local

produce as possible. Come for dishes

such as Venetian-style calves’ liver, sea

bream with chorizo, or venison with

Parma ham and black pudding.

1 Ness Walk, IV3 5NE; 01463 717 274;

http://www.rocpoolrestaurant.com

DRIVE 25: On the Highlands Whisky Trail

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

4 Pluscarden Abbey
Elgin, Moray; IV30 8UA
Sitting serenely in a sheltered valley
surrounded by trees, Pluscarden Abbey
(open daily; http://www.pluscardenabbey.org))
seems to radiate tranquillity. Founded
in the year 1230 by King Alexander II of
Scotland, this venerable building is still
home to a community of Benedictine
monks – the only such medieval
monastery in Britain still used for its
original purpose. The abbey church
contains contemporary stained-glass
windows, most of which are made in
the abbey workshop by monks.
ª Continue on the minor road to turn
left onto B9010 near Elgin. A 24-m (80-
ft) high column, erected in memory of
the 5th Duke of Gordon in 1839, can be
clearly seen rising above the town. Take
B9010 into Elgin; there is parking near
the cathedral, off the High Street and
also by North Street.

5 Elgin
Elgin, Moray; IV30
With historic buildings, a medieval
street plan and pretty park, Elgin is a
pleasant town for a stroll. Undoubtedly,
its finest sight is the ruined Elgin
Cathedral (Apr–Oct: open daily; Nov–Mar;
open Sat–Wed), which was once so large

it was known as the Lantern of the

North; intricate carvings on the exterior

and its almost complete Chapterhouse

provide a glimpse of its former glory.

Elgin Museum (Apr–Oct: open Mon–Sat;

http://www.elginmuseum.org.uk) has a vast

collection of fascinating items from

ancient Pictish stones, Roman coins,

fossils, paintings by local artists and a

display on the county and its people.

ª Leave Elgin on A96, towards Keith.

After the Baxters Visitor Centre (the food

company), turn left onto B9104 and

follow it to Spey Bay. The WDCS visitor

centre and car park is at the road’s end.

Above left The ruins of Elgin Cathedral, once one

of the finest in Scotland Above top right The

field where the decisive Battle of Culloden was

fought in 1746 Above right Detail of Pluscarden

Abbey, still home to Benedictine monks

take A96 east and branch off onto
B9011 in Forres, to turn right on B9010.
Drive through fertile fields and turn left
on a signed unclassified road to reach
the abbey, and car park on the left-
hand side.

Above Impressive ruins at Elgin Cathedral with almost intact Chapterhouse