Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

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6 WDCS Wildlife Centre

Spey Bay, Moray; IV32 7PJ

Perched beside the unspoilt sands of

Spey Bay, the Whale and Dolphin

Conservation Society Wildlife Centre

(Apr–Oct: open daily; Mar & Nov: weekends;

http://www.wdcs.org) constantly monitors the

water for dolphin activity. This part of

the coast is noted for its bottlenose

dolphins and visitors have a good

chance of spotting them – especially

with the help of the wildlife wardens.

This area is also home to minke whales,

ospreys, otters and wildfowl. The staff

here offer informative talks, as well as

guided walks on the nature reserve.

ª Return to A96 and turn right, then

left on B9015 to Rothes. There, take

A941 south, passing the Glen Grant

Distillery. Stay on A941 through

Craigellachie and on to Speyside

Cooperage, with parking.

8 Dufftown

Keith, Banffshire; AB55

Dufftown is popularly known as “the

town that was built on seven stills”, a

reference to the distilleries that dot the

surrounding countryside. Founded in

1817, the so-called malt whisky capital

of the world is a pleasant town with an

imposing central clock tower.

Just outside Dufftown is the Keith &

Dufftown Railway (Easter–May & Sep:

open weekends; Jun–Aug: open Fri–Sun;

http://www.keith-dufftown-railway.co.uk), run by

volunteers, which makes a great family

expedition (a round trip lasts an hour

and a half ). A restored diesel train

chugs through stunning Highland

scenery, crossing the Fiddich Viaduct,

passing distilleries and ruined castles,

before reaching the market town of

Keith, home of the Strathisla Distillery.

Immediately south of the railway

station stands the family-owned

Glenfiddich Distillery (Easter–Oct: open

daily; Nov–Easter: open Mon–Fri; http://www.

glenfiddich.com ), which has been

7 Speyside Cooperage

Craigellachie, Banffshire; AB38 9RS

Nearly all the casks in Scotland are

made at this family-run cooperage.

The Visitor Centre (open Mon–Fri; http://www.

speysidecooperage.co.uk) introduces this

ancient industry, explaining how they

make the oak casks, and how sherry

and bourbon casks are repaired, and

then used to give distinctive flavours

to whiskies. Visitors can watch the

coopers and apprentices at work – it’s

a four-year apprenticeship – using the

traditional tools of their trade.

There are also some good walks on

the Speyside Way from Craigellachie.

ª Turn right from the cooperage

onto A941. Before Dufftown, on the

left-hand side, is the Keith & Dufftown

Railway, with parking.

Below Looking out to sea from the WDCS Wildlife Centre, Spey Bay

Above Statue of an osprey outside the WDCS

Wildlife Centre, Spey Bay

BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

The Honours of Scotland

After Charles I was executed, the

Scots crowned his son, Charles II,

at Scone Palace. Then in 1650 Oliver

Cromwell, (the anti-monarchist

leader) ordered an invasion of

Scotland. To prevent him destroying

the country’s Crown Jewels –the

Honours of Scotland – they were

taken to Dunnottar Castle and later

to Kinneff Old Church – where they

lay under the floor for eight years.

Eventually they were taken to

Edinburgh Castle and hidden again

• too well, in fact, for everyone
  forgot where they were until Sir
  Walter Scott rediscovered them.

VISITING DUFFTOWN

Parking

Park at the top of Balvenie Street under

the clock – although most of Dufftown’s

sights are outside the village.

Tourist Information

2 The Square, AB55 4AD; 01340 820 501

WHERE TO STAY

AROUND SPEYSIDE COOPERAGE

Craigellachie Hotel moderate

Built in 1893, the Craigellachie Hotel

offers country house accommodation

on the River Spey, just north of the

Speyside Cooperage. It makes an ideal

stop on the whisky trail, especially as its

Quaich Bar has over 700 whiskies to

choose from. It’s also handy for walks as

the Speyside Way runs beside the hotel.

The restaurant is worth visiting, too.

Craigellachie, Speyside, AB38 9SR; 01340

881 204; http://www.craigellachie.com

AROUND LEITH HALL

Castle Hotel moderate

Built in the 18th century as a home

for the Dukes of Gordon (powerful

Scottish nobles), the hotel is set in

quiet parkland and has comfortable,

traditionally furnished rooms. It’s a

delightful place for a relaxing break.

Huntly, Aberdeenshire, AB54 4SH

(follow driving instructions from

Dufftown to Leith Hall); 01466 792

696; http://www.castlehotel.uk.com