34
5 Mousehole
Cornwall; TR19 6SD
This quintessential Cornish fishing
village – pronounced “mouzel” –
with a granite sea-walled harbour
held over 400 pilchard fishing boats
in the 19th century. A tangle of
steep narrow lanes lead down past
pretty cottages to waterside pubs,
cafés and shops. Mousehole Bird
Sanctuary on Raginnis Hill cares for
injured sea birds (open daily).
ª Return to the B3315 to Newlyn and
join A30 (towards Truro). Turn right to
Marazion at the junction with A394.
Follow signs to St Michael’s Mount.7 The Lizard Peninsula
The tip of this windswept peninsula is
England’s most southerly point. Paths
trace around the cliffs of this jagged
coastline, dropping to secluded coves
and harbours. Rare wildflowers grow
on the heathland where ponies graze.
At much-photographed Kynance
Cove, tilted pinnacles of rock stand
like giants paddling in the sea off the
sandy beach surrounded by cliffs.
At the end of the A3083, the Lizard
Point Lighthouse is the most powerful
in England, visible for 34 km (21 miles)
in one of the world’s busiest shipping
lanes. In summer, basking sharks can
often be seen just offshore.
Back up the A3083, to the right,
tucked below the cliffs, lies Cadgwith.
Here, pretty white-washed thatched
cottages surround a tiny harbour
whose fishermen entered the record
books in the 19th century by landing
1.3 million pilchards in one day. Now
they mainly catch lobster and crab
which can be sampled with a glass of
real ale at the Cadgwith Cove Inn.
Drive though Ruan Minor and
Kuggar, turning left onto the B3293 to
the Goonhilly Satellite Earth Station
(with car park). On the open heathland
stands a cluster of huge, futuristic
satellite dishes – the largest is 46 m
(151 ft) high – transmitting millions of
messages every day. The Future World
interactive exhibition (open Tue–Sun)
suggests what life may be like in the
next hundred years. Guided tours
include a look inside a satellite dish.
Carrying on the B3293, turn off right
to Gweek. Children of all ages will love
the Gweek Seal Sanctuary (open daily).
Above Helford estuary, the sanctuary6 St Michael’s Mount
near Penzance, Cornwall; TR17 0EF
This islet, looming out of the sea near
Marazion, is dramatically topped by a
12th-century castle (open daily Apr–
Oct) – in turn church, priory, fortress
and now private home. At low tide it
can be reached on foot across a
causeway first used by pilgrims in the
Middle Ages; a small ferry runs from
Marazion at other times. A cobbled
path leads up to the castle past
terraced gardens. Home of the St
Aubyn family since 1660, it has a mix
of architectural styles.
ª Return to the A394 to Helston, then
turn right on the A3083 to the Lizard
Peninsula. Turn right at signs for
Kynance Cove after Mullion.Cornish Wreckers
As any Cornishman will tell you,
“wreckers” were really bounty-
seekers, not heartless criminals who
deliberately lured ships onto the
rocks by placing a decoy light on
the shore. The Cornish coast with its
jagged rocks and fierce currents,
scarcely needed any help to cause
shipwrecks as hundreds of boats
floundered on it over the years. On
stormy nights, wreckers would be
ready and waiting to plunder any
cargo, though responsible ones
would rescue the sailors first. Often
wrecking led to battles with local
“preventive men” – customs officers.WHERE TO STAYAROUND THE LIZARD PENINSULA
Mullion Cove Hotel
moderate–expensive
Originally built for wealthy Victorians,
this gleaming white clifftop hotel
enjoys extensive sea views.
Mullion Cove, TR12 7EP; 01326 240
328; http://www.mullion-cove.co.uk
AROUND TREBAH
Budock Vean expensive
Large hotel in vast parklands beside the
Helford River. Award-winning restaurant,
sports activities and natural health spa.
Helford Passage, Mawnan Smith, TR11
5LG (1 km/½ mile from Trebah); 01326
250 288; http://www.budockvean.co.ukST JUST-IN-ROSELAND
Round House Barns moderate
A Cornish cream tea greets guests at
this award-winning B&B in a tastefully
converted 17th-century barn.
St Just-in-Roseland, TR2 5JJ;
01872 580 038;
http://www.roundhousebarnholidays.co.uk
ST MAWES
Tresanton expensive
Award-winning hotel stylishly created
in a cluster of old houses. Rooms and
restaurant have sea views.
27 Lower Castle Road, TR2 5DR; 01326
270 055; http://www.tresanton.comAbove The Castle, dominating St Michael’s
Mount, off Marazion Top right Picturesque
harbour and granite houses at Mousehole
Right Sign at Lizard Point, mainland England’s
most southerly pointBACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150