Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

(Tina Meador) #1

35


8 Trebah Gardens
Mawnan Smith, Cornwall; TR11 5JZ
In the 1830s, prosperous shipping
agent and enthusiastic horticulturalist
Charles Fox collected a wealth of
sub-tropical plants and trees from
around the world to create Trebah
Gardens (open daily). This lush
paradise, set in a wooded ravine
which descends 61 m (200 ft) to a
private beach on Helford River has
tumbling waterfalls, a pool of giant
koi carp and great banks of blue and
white hydrangeas. Paths lead under
the shaded canopy of giant gunnera
leaves and through a bamboo maze
and flower borders.
ª Return to Mawnan Smith, follow
signs to Penryn. Turn left onto A39.
Next take B3289 right to the King
Harry Ferry (toll) across the Fal and
back on B3289 to St Just-in-Roseland.


through a 17th-century lych (roofed)
gateway or via the beach, is notable
for its subtropical plants and borders
of granite stones inscribed with
Biblical texts and hymns.
ª Head south on A3078 to St Mawes.
Fork right for castle; park in car park.

0 St Mawes
Cornwall; TR2 5DE
Terraces of old cob cottages and smart
modern houses command glorious
seaviews from their position above the
harbour. The views and two sandy
beaches make St Mawes a popular
spot for holidays and retirement, as
well as for sailing and walking. The
castle, the best preserved of Henry
VIII’s coastal fortresses, has gun ports
on the three huge circular bastions
overlooking the busy Carrick Roads
waterway, a large natural harbour
created during the Ice Age.
ª Head north on A3078. After Ruan
High Lanes, turn right (signed Portloe)
and follow signs to Mevagissey through
Tippetts Shop and Tubbs Mill. The
gardens (with car park) are to the right.

EAT AND DRINK

MOUSEHOLE
2 Fore Street inexpensive
French-style bistro noted for its fresh
fish, interesting puddings and home-
made bread; courtyard in summer.
2 Fore Street, TR19 6PL; 01736 731 164;
http://www.2forestreet.co.uk
THE LIZARD PENINSULA
Gweek Inn inexpensive
Friendly Cornish pub offering a large
selection of real ales. Menu includes
traditional English puddings served with
custard, ice cream or clotted cream.
Gweek, TR12 6TU; 01326 221 502;
http://www.gweekinn.co.uk
AROUND TREBAH
Red Lion inexpensive
Picturesque thatched pub (1545) with
three atmospheric bars offers bar
lunches and restaurant in the evening.
Goldmartin Square, Mawnan Smith,
TR11 5EP (1 km/0.5 mile from Trebah);
01326 250 026
ST MAWES
The Victory inexpensive
Traditional pub with bar meals and
first-floor restaurant with terrace.
St Mawes, TR2 5PQ; 01326 270 324;
http://www.victory-inn.co.uk
HELIGAN
Lobbs Farm Shop moderate
This shop by the Gardens’ entrance sells
fresh Cornish produce and picnic fare.
Pentewan, PL26 6EN; 01726 844 411;
http://www.lobbsfarmshop.com

Above The beautiful and luxuriant gardens at
Trebah, near Mawnan Smith

Above Futuristic satellite dish at Goonhilly Satellite
Earth Station on the Lizard Peninsula

Above Winged cherub statue in the leafy, green
Lost Gardens of Heligan


cares for sick or injured seals. There
are also otters, ponies, goats and
a children’s play area.
ª From Gweek carry on towards
Falmouth; at Constantine turn right at
sign to Mawnan Smith where Trebah
Gardens (and car park) are signed.


q Lost Gardens of Heligan
Pentewan, Cornwall; PL26 6EN
The “lost” gardens of Heligan (open
daily) were restored in the 1990s after
75 years of neglect to their original
designs, laid out between 1766 and
World War I, including Italian and
New Zealand gardens, summer
houses, a rocky ravine, crystal grotto
and wishing well. Just as remarkable
is the story of Tim Smit, the force
behind this restoration (and the Eden
Project, see p36), who took it on after
a successful career in pop music.
ª Turn right out of the gardens then
left onto B3273 towards St Austell. Turn
right to Charlestown.

9 St Just-in-Roseland
Cornwall; TR2 5HY
Designated an Area of Outstanding
Natural Beauty for its leafy lanes and
seascapes, the Roseland peninsula
includes St Just-in-Roseland whose
13th-century St Justus Church with
its squat crenellated tower nestles
beside a wooded tidal creek, framed
by trees – a truly picture-postcard
scene. The churchyard, entered either


DRIVE 1: Lizard Point and the South Cornwall Coast


Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50
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