36
Above left Close up of one of the biome
domes, the Eden Project Above centre Inside
the “Temperate” biome at the Eden Project
Above right View of Fowey across the
estuary, seen from PolruanWalking on Dartmoor
Much of Dartmoor National Park can
only be explored on foot by fairly
experienced walkers. However, the
going is easier around the edges,
where gentle woodland footpaths
run beside small rivers, for example
along Lydford Gorge and by the East
Dart at Bellever. The High Moorland
Visitor Centre (Tavistock Road,
Princetown) is a good starting point
for circular walks, detailed in a free
leaflet; other walks start from visitor
centres at Haytor, Postbridge and
Newbridge. In addition, there is a
year-round programme of guided
walks graded by length and difficulty,
see http://www.dartmoor-npa.gov.uk.VISITING FOWEYTourist Information
5 South Street, PL23 1AR; 01726 833
616; http://www.fowey.co.uk
Ferry Services
Take the Bodinnick car ferry, and then
follow signs to Polruan Ferry (car park).
The passenger ferry crosses to Fowey
every 15 minutes. The last ferry back is
at 11pm (www.looe.org/ferries.html).WHERE TO STAYAROUND THE EDEN PROJECT
Boscundle Manor expensive
Comfortable 18th-century country
house with gardens and pools.
Boscundle, PL25 3RL (1.5 km/1 mile
south of the Eden Project); 01726 813
557; http://www.boscundlemanor.co.uk
FOWEY
Old Quay House expensive
Elegant modern interiors and an award-
winning restaurant overlooking the
estuary grace this 150-year-old hotel.
28 Fore Street, PL23 1AQ; 01726 833
302; http://www.theoldquayhouse.com; no
under-12sPOLPERRO
Claremont Hotel inexpensive
Traditional small family-run hotel, partl
dating back to the 17th century, in the
heart of the village.
The Coombes, PL13 2RG; 01503 272
241; http://www.theclaremonthotel.co.ukTAVISTOCK
Bedford Hotel inexpensve
This stately building, on the site of a
Benedictine abbey, was once the
residence of the Dukes of Bedford.
1 Plymouth Road, PL19 8BB; 01822 613
221; http://www.bedford-hotel.co.uke The Eden Project
Bodelva, St Austell, Cornwall; PL24 2SG
Moving on from Heligan, Tim Smit’s
next visionary idea was the Eden
Project (open daily) which has turned
a huge disused china clay quarry intow Charlestown
Charlestown, St Austell; PL25 3NJ
Soon after china clay was discovered
250 years ago in the downs north of
St Austell, a major industry evolved.
The “white gold” was exported around
the world from Charlestown dock,
formerly just a small fishing harbour.
The Shipwreck Museum (Mar–Oct,
open daily) on the quayside evokes
local history through tableaux, models
and photographs; visitors can also
enter dark tunnels through which clay
was conveyed in trucks to the dock-
side. Today, the dock is quiet once
more, home to three full-size replicas
of historic sailing ships, used on film
locations. Tours of ships available
when in dock (Easter–Oct, open daily).
ª Turn right and take A390 through St
Austell. Follow signs to Eden Project.Above Historic Square Sail Rigger at Charlestown
harbour, near St AustellBACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150a “living theatre of plants and
people”. The result is a series of
incredible geodesic “biomes”, the
largest greenhouses in the world, in
which different environments have
been created – rainforest, temperate
and arid, all surrounded by gardens.
There is also a programme of
seasonal events and exhibitions.
ª Rejoin A390, turning right onto
A3082 to Fowey. Parking can be found
opposite the Tourist Information
Centre on Albert Quay. For a car-free
visit see left.r Fowey
Cornwall; PL23 1AR
Two ruined blockhouses, one in Fowey
(pronounced “foy”), the other across
the estuary in Polruan, are a reminder
of medieval times when a defensive
chain stretched between them to
demast any undesirable ships trying
to enter the deep anchorage. Today
the river is busy with pleasure craft,
and neat Edwardian terraces linked by
narrow streets climb up from the busy
water’s edge. The town’s focal point is