42
3 Westward Ho!
Devon; EX39 1QS
The neighbouring seaside resort,
named after Charles Kingsley’s novel of
Elizabethan seafarers, is notable mainly
for having England’s oldest golf links, a
long sandy beach and a pebble ridge.
ª Take B3236 and A39 to Bideford, take
A386 to Great Torrington, follow signs to
Dartington Crystal. Park in the car park.VISITING BIDEFORDParking
Park in the Victoria Park car park next
to the Tourist Information Centre.
Tourist Information
Burton Art Gallery, Kingsley Road, EX39
2QQ; 01237 471 455; http://www.torridge.
gov.uk
Bideford Cycle, Surf and Kayak Hire
Torrington Street, EX39 4DR; 01237 424
123; http://www.bidefordbicyclehire.co.uk
Boat Trips to Lundy Island
Up to five 2-hour sailings a week from
April to October. Bideford Quay, 01271
863 636; http://www.lundyisland.co.uk
1 Bideford
Devon; EX39 2QQ
Described 150 years ago by local
writer Charles Kingsley as “the little
white town which slopes upward
from its broad river tide”, Bideford is
still much the same, busy with fishing
vessels, pleasure craft and the MS
Oldenburg, which ferries visitors to
the National Trust’s Lundy Island bird
sanctuary, 17 km (11 miles) away. The
promenade beside the Taw Estuary
has been set off since the 13th
century by the 24-arch Long Bridge,
originally built from wood but
encased in stone since 1535. Narrow
old streets crowded with small shops
and pubs lead up from the water to
the Victorian Pannier Market hall,
named for the baskets in whichBACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150WHERE TO STAYBIDEFORD
Orchard Hill moderate
A smart yet friendly hotel on the hillside,
its restaurant features local produce.
Orchard Hill, EX39 2QY; 01237 472 872;
http://www.orchardhill.co.uk
Yeoldon House moderate
A former Victorian residence, this
riverside hotel has a a fine restaurant.
Durrant Lane, EX39 2RL; 01237 474
400; http://www.yeoldonhousehotel.co.uk
HARTLAND PENINSULA
Hartland Quay Hotel moderate
This remote hotel is dramatically sited
under the cliffs by the sea.
Hartland, EX39 6DU; 01237 441 218;
http://www.hartlandquayhotel.com; closed
20 Dec–2 Jan2 Appledore
Devon; EX39 1QS
Along tiny streets and alleyways,
colour-washed Georgian cottages
with bow windows line the Taw and
Torridge estuaries; no wonder
Appledore has become a favourite
with local artists – several galleries
show their work. Fishing and ship-
building were the town’s life blood
for centuries, as shown in the small
North Devon Maritime Museum in
Odun Road (open Easter–Oct, daily;
May–Sept, Mon–Fri) and fishing trips
are available from the quay.
ª Follow signs to Westward Ho!Far left Fishing boats moored at the quay at
Appledore Above left Wall sculptures created by
one of Appledore’s artists Below left A statue
of local author Charles Kingsley in BidefordAbove left A sign advertises traditional pasties
Above right Bideford’s Pannier Market hallfarmers’ wives used to bring produce
for sale. Burton Art Gallery (open Tue–
Sat & Sun pm) in Victoria Park on the
riverside has sections on the town’s
history. It’s possible to hire a bike
nearby and cycle along the Tarka Trail
to Great Torrington.
ª From the Victoria Park car park, turn
right onto Kingsley Road (B3235) and
cross A39 onto A386, signposted to
Appledore. Park in car park on quay.