Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

(Tina Meador) #1

45


7 Tintagel
Cornwall; PL34 0HE
Was this clifftop castle the birthplace
of the legendary King Arthur? Did
the medieval kings of Cornwall live
there? Mystery surrounds the ruins
perched on a rocky headland
beyond the village’s single main
street. The castle’s ruined battle-
ments (open daily) date back to the
13th century and are well worth the
steep climb for exhilarating views of
the dramatic coastline. In the village


8 Delabole Slate
Cornwall; PL33 9AZ
The largest man-made hole in Britain,
at Delabole Slate, has been quarried
for more than 600 years. Over 1 km
(half a mile) across and nearly 1,500 m
(500 ft) deep, the hole is Europe’s
oldest continuously worked quarry,
producing 120 tons of slate a day.
(tours of surface works May–Aug, Mon–Fri).
ª Leaving Delabole Slate, turn left
onto B3314 and left at Westdowns onto
B3267 to join A39 towards Wadebridge.
After Wadebridge, turn right at St
Breock onto A389 to Padstow. Prideaux
Place is on the edge of Padstow, off
B3276 towards Newquay. Park on the
quay or in Prideaux Place car park.

EAT AND DRINK

BUDE
Pengenna Pasties inexpensive
Beef, lamb, cheese & onion, vegetable
or vegan is the choice of traditional
Cornish pasties at this small bakery.
Arundell House, Belle Vue, EX23 8JL;
01288 355 169; http://www.pengenna
pasties.co.uk
The Castle moderate
Smart restaurant with sea-facing
terrace in the Castle Heritage Centre;
strong emphasis on local produce.
The Wharf, EX23 8LG; 01288 350 543;
http://www.thecastlerestaurantbude.co.uk;
closed Sun eve
AROUND BUDE
Life’s A Beach daytime: inexpensive;
evening: expensive
By day this is a popular beachside café;
at 7pm it turns into a sophisticated
restaurant, specializing in fish.
Follow signs from Bude to Summerleaze
Beach (1 mile), EX23 8HN; 01288 355
222; http://www.lifesabeach.info
TINTAGEL
Cornishman Inn cheap
Atmospheric, beamed pub with a
restaurant noted for its steaks; 10 rooms.
Fore Street, PL34 0DB; 01840 770 238 ;
http://www.cornishmaninn.com

Above left Bude’s grassy clifftops Above
right Life’s a Beach café at Summerleaze

DRIVE 2: Bideford to Bodmin Moor


Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

coastguard’s hut, erected in Grecian
style as a symbol of Bude’s ambitions.
Look back past the Haven over
twin sandy beaches Summerleaze
and Crooklets; in Victorian times
Crooklets was for women’s use only.
The path along the clifftop crosses
Efford Down 6. Here in 1643
Cornishmen in the Royalist Army
camped on the eve of the English Civil
War battle of Stamford Hill, where they
defeated the Parliamentarians.
At Upton, turn left inland and
follow the lane down to the canal at
Rodd’s Bridge 7. Turn left along the
towpath, noting the stone mile-post
8 beside it, dating from 1820, and
carry on along the towpath that
flanks Bude Marshes nature reserve
9 , where a variety of wild birds and
flowers flourish, back to the start.
ª Turn left out of car park and leave
Bude on small clifftop road signposted
to Widemouth Bay to rejoin A39 in
direction of Camelford. Turn right
onto B3263 to Boscastle and then
Tintagel, where several car parks are
signposted in village and near castle.


Below left The rocky headlands of Tintagel Below right Medieval battlements at Tintagel Castle


itself are the 14th-century Old Post
Office (open Mar–Oct daily) and King
Arthur’s Great Halls (open daily),
telling the legend of the king. On
the rugged clifftop you can see the
12th-century church of St Materiana.
ª Return to B3263 in direction of
Camelford, turning right at sign to
Delabole on B3314. Delabole Slate
quarry is signed to the left in the
village. Park in the quarry car park.
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