Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

(Tina Meador) #1

DRIVE 3: Taunton to Barnstaple


0 Braunton Burrows
Braunton; EX33 2NU
Behind Saunton Sands, Braunton
Burrows is the largest area of sand
dunes in England, stretching 6½ km
(4 miles). With 500 species of wild
flowers and 33 of butterflies, the area
is a SSSI (Site of Special Scientific
Interest) and part of North Devon’s
UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Kestrels,

Above The wooden-framed Pannier Market
(1855), Barnstaple Right South West Coast
Path on the way to Mortehoe, Devon

9 Woolacombe
Devon; EX34 7DL
Woolacombe’s beach, which stretches
for nearly 5 km (3 miles), is regularly
voted one of the world’s best. Backed
by dunes and washed by Atlantic
waves, the beach attracts surfers year
round. Nick Thorn Surf School (www.
nickthorn.co.uk) offers lessons.
Clamber over rocks at the north end
to Barricane Beach to hunt for shells
washed here from the Caribbean.
Above the beach is a memorial to
American forces who trained there for
the D-Day landings in 1944.
ª Follow signs along minor roads to
Croyde. Then take B3231 towards
Braunton, turning right (opposite sign
to Lobb) onto a narrow road to
Braunton Burrows car park.


EAT AND DRINK

MORTEHOE
Chichester Arms inexpensive
Next to the church, this 16th-century
pub was once the vicarage. It serves
good ales and food with a beer garden.
EX34 7DU; 01271 870 411
AROUND MORTEHOE
The Quay expensive
Artist Damien Hirst’s fish restaurant has
dining rooms facing harbour and sea.
Take B3343 and turn left on A361 to
Ilfracombe; 11 The Quay, Ilfracombe,
EX34 9EQ; 01271 868 090;
http://www.11thequay.com

WOOLACOMBE
Red Barn inexpensive
Lively bar-restaurant near the beach,
popular with surfers and families.
The Esplanade, EX34 7DF;
01271 870 264
AROUND BRAUNTON BURROWS
Squire’s Fish Restaurant moderate
Renowned as the best place in the area
for traditional fish and chips – large
portions and top quality.
Exeter Road, Braunton, EX33 1JR;
01271 815 533; closed Sun

q Barnstaple
Devon; EX32 8LN
The town’s fortunes as a sea port have
declined but Barnstaple’s market still
bustles with life in the 150-year-old
timber-framed Pannier Market (Apr–
Dec: open Mon–Sat; Jan–Mar: closed Sun,
Mon, Thu). On the Strand riverside
promenade, the town’s 18th-century
maritime heyday is depicted in the
Heritage Centre (closed Sun, Mon). At
the end of the Strand is the Museum
of Barnstaple and North Devon (closed
Mon) with an eccentric collection of
local archaeology, natural history and
crafts. The best views of the scenic Taw
Estuary can be enjoyed by cycling the
Tarka Trail, along a riverside stretch of
old railway track. Hire bikes from Tarka
Trail Cycle Hire ( The Railway Station;
01271 324 202; http://www.tarkatrail.co.uk).

DAY TRIP OPTIONS
There is a variety of great days out
based anywhere around Exmoor.

West Somerset Railway
Start at Taunton 1 to see St Mary’s
Church; then it’s on to Washford 2
to visit Cleeve Abbey, before taking a
trip on this preserved railway line
through the Somerset countryside.

Take the A358 north from Taunton and
then left on the A39 to Washford.

Beaches and Coastal Trails
Work up an appetite building sand-
castles at Woolacombe 9 , hike the
South West Coast Path at Mortehoe
8 and then indulge in a cream tea.
Follow the B3343 to Woolacombe’s car

parks, off the A361, then follow signs to
Mortehoe and park in the village.

Lorna Doone Country
Visit the castle at Dunster 3 , then
climb Dunkery Beacon for views of
Exmoor and follow the Lorna Doone
Trail from Oare 6.
Dunster and Oare are both off the A39.

55


skylarks and curlews can often be
seen flying overhead. The site of
practice beach landings during World
War II, the dunes are still used by the
army for 10 days a year.
ª Return on the same road, but take
first right (unmarked narrow road) to
join A361 to Barnstaple. Park in Green
Lanes Shopping Centre (signposted).
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