60
Above The pretty stone-quarrying town of
Worth MatraversBelow The historic restored railway line at SwanageWHERE TO STAYSWANAGE
Grand Hotel Swanage moderate
This old-fashioned Victorian palace has
terrific views over the Bay, a splendid
lawn and an award-winning restaurant.
Burlington Rd, BH19 1LU; 01929 423
353; http://www.grandhotelswanage.co.ukAROUND WAREHAM
Kemps Country House expensive
West of Wareham, off the A352, this
former Victorian rectory offers clean,
modern and well-equipped rooms. East
Stoke, BH20 6AL (5 km/3 miles on A352
and B3070 from Wareham); 0845 862
0315; http://www.kempscountryhouse.co.ukLULWORTH COVE
The Beach House moderate
This whitewashed Edwardian hotel has
contemporary rooms overlooking the
sea or an adjacent duck pond.
West Lulworth, BH20 5RQ; 01929 400
404; http://www.lulworthbeachhotel.com
WEYMOUTH
Chandlers Hotel moderate
Small pristine hotel within walking
distance of the centre. 4 Westerhall Rd,
DT4 7SZ; 01305 771 341;
http://www.chandlershotel.comVISITING SWANAGEParking
There’s a short-term car park behind the
tourist office, on Horsecliffe Lane, off
Victoria Avenue. There’s also a longer
term car park on Victoria Ave (A351).
Tourist Information
The White House, Shore Rd, BH19 1LB;
0870 442 0680; http://www.swanage.gov.uk1 Swanage
Dorset; BH19 1LB
This is a quintessential Victorian resort
with a seafront promenade, Punch
and Judy shows and a fine sandy
beach that curves around Swanage
Bay. For something wilder, head 7 km
(4 miles) north to Studland Bay – the
tourist office by the beach has maps
for walkers, or take bus no. 50 from
Shore Rd. The town is not without
interest either. The stone façade of the
Town Hall, built 1833, was taken from
the Mercers’ Hall in London (designed
by Christopher Wren) when it was
being remodelled – notice the
cherubs holding cloths for
the Virgin Mary. Board a
Swanage Railway (Apr–
Oct) steam train for a visit
to Corfe Castle.
ª Leave on A351, left on
B3069 and left to Worth
Matravers. Park behind pub.BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £1502 Worth Matravers
Dorset; BH19 3LF
This tiny village’s attractions include
The Square and Compass pub (see
right), inspiring views (can be enjoyed
from the pub’s outdoor tables), and a
graceful Norman church, St Nicholas.
Dating from the late 12th century, the
church has a wood-beamed roof and
a jagged chancel arch. This is a great
place to enjoy a walk along the South
West Coast Path, starting on one of
the footpaths that radiate from the
village to the coast on either side.
ª Turn left out of the car park, then
left onto the B3069 to A351, then left
to Corfe village, castle and car park.3 Corfe Castle
Dorset; BH20 5EZ
The silhouette of the crumbling
castle ruins (open daily) that dominate
this village presents a truly romantic
vista. This once mighty
Norman bastion owes
its present decrepit state
to the English Civil War
(1641–51), when Lady
Bankes defended it
against Parliamentarian
troops, who finally blew
the castle up after a six-week siege.
ª Carry along the A351, then take
B3075, signposted Stoborough, for
Wareham. Car park is on right over river.4 Wareham
Dorset; BH20 4LU
Located on the River Frome close to
the sea, Wareham was an important
port in Saxon times. Now a pretty
backwater, it preserves the layout of
its old town walls. St Martin’s Church
also has much of its Saxon structure,
medieval frescoes and a romantic
effigy of T E Lawrence (see box above).
Hire a rowing boat or kayak at the
bridge and enjoy a river trip fromLawrence of Arabia,
WarehamLawrence of Arabia in Dorset
T E Lawrence – dubbed “Lawrence
of Arabia” for his World War I exploits- spent his post-war life in quiet
Dorset. See his effigy in Wareham
and cottage at Clouds Hill (late
Mar–late Oct: open Thu–Sun). From
here, it’s possible to walk to the site
of his fatal motorbike crash, to his
grave in Moreton and to Bovington
Camp where he briefly served –
now a tank museum (open daily).