Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

(Tina Meador) #1

63


q Sherborne
Dorset; DT9 3NL
The chief glory of this charming stone
town is Sherborne Abbey, a fine
example of Perpendicular architecture
whose fan-vaulted ceiling is studded
with colourful bosses depicting such
images as a mermaid, an owl and a
dog with a bone. To the east of town
stand the ruined Old Castle (late Mar–
Oct: open daily), dating from the 12th
century, and the New Castle (late Mar–
Oct: open Tue–Thu & Sun; Sat pm), built for
Sir Walter Raleigh in 1594, with grand
state rooms, a Tudor kitchen and now
with parkland by “Capability” Brown.

Above Sherborne Abbey, featuring Saxon,
Norman and Perpendicular architecture

Above The chalk carving of the Cerne Giant,
possibly a fertility symbol


9 Maiden Castle
Dorset; DT1 2AB, DT2 8QJ
Prehistoric Maiden Castle (open daily) is
the largest Iron-Age hillfort in Europe.
The vast and complex structure of 6-
m (20-ft) ramparts and trenches is


DRIVE 4: Hardy Country and the Jurassic Coast


Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Dorchester and Swanage are both
good bases for exploring the
coastline, beaches and museums.

Jurassic Adventure
Spend a morning at Dorchester’s 8
Dinosaur Museum and Dorset County
Museum, pack a picnic and head to

Weymouth 6 for some fossil-hunting
on Chesil Beach or Portland – keep
away from the cliffs. If time make a trip
to Abbotsbury 7 with its children’s
farm and swannery.
Weymouth is on the A354 from
Dorchester, then use the B3157 for
Chesil Beach; return as per drive.

Coast and Castles
From Swanage 1 , ride a steam train
before lunching at Worth Matravers 2.
Then head on to Corfe Castle 3 and
Wareham 4 , and finish the day off at
Lulworth Cove 5 or Durdle Door.
Take the A351, B3069, A351 and B3070;
skip Wareham, if short of time.

0 Cerne Abbas
Dorset; DT2 7JF
Amid the timbered, golden houses of
Cerne Abbas stands St Mary’s Church,
dating from the 13th century and
boasting a rare stone chancel screen.
However, the village is most famous
for the Cerne Giant, a chalk carving on
a hillside north of the village. Little is
known about the origins of the 55-m
(180-ft) figure, wielding a club and
proudly displaying his manhood. It
was first recorded in 1694, though
some historians believe it dates from
around 190 AD, possibly depicting
Hercules – it has long been the site of
fertility rituals. To view it, turn up Duck
St from Long St, following signs for
the Giant and a parking area.
ª Turn right out of the viewing area,
on the A352, signed Sherborne. Follow
signs to Abbey and park opposite.

EAT AND DRINK

DORCHESTER
Potters inexpensive
This casual but smart café offers a
healthy selection of home-cooked food,
from snack lunches to cakes.
19 Durngate St, DT1 1JP; 01305 260 312
Judge Jeffreys inexpensive
Great Italian cuisine is served in this
former residence of the infamous Judge
Jeffreys, with panelled dining areas.
6 High West St, DT1 1UJ; 01305 259
678; http://www.prezzoplc.co.uk
The Fridge inexpensive
Blue Vinny cheese, Dorset Apple Cake
and other local specialities are stocked
in this award-winning delicatessen.
17 Tudor Arcade, DT1 1BN; 01305 269
088; http://www.thefridge.biz
SHERBORNE
Aspire 2 Eat inexpensive
Close to the Abbey, this bistro/wine bar
serves dishes such as mushroom risotto,
grilled goat’s cheese and crab tagliatelle.
Digby Rd, DT9 3NL; 01935 389 666;
http://www.aspire2eat.co.uk
The Green moderate
Sophisticated modern European
cuisine is featured in this semi-formal
restaurant where all the ingredients
are fresh and locally sourced.
3 The Green, DT9 3HY; 01935 813 821

now all grassed over but the
undulating banks vividly evoke the
ancient fortification (450–300 BC),
overcome by the Romans in AD 43.
ª Return to A35, heading east
around Dorchester, turn left on B3150
and right on B3143. At Piddletrenthide,
turn left, following signs for Cerne
Abbas, up a narrow, steep lane.

following it to the Roman Town House
0 (open daily). The ruins reveal the
elaborate heating system and mosaic
floors. At the end of Northernhay, turn
left into The Grove, and on to a statue
of Thomas Hardy. Cross The Grove and
walk up Bridport Rd to the fascinating


Keep Military Museum (^) q (Apr–Sep:
open Mon–Sat; Oct–Mar: open Tue–Sat),
revealing the history of local army
regiments. From here, return to High
West St to see a fragment of Roman
Wall w by Princes St. Cross here and
follow West Walks, turning right at the
end then left into Cornwall Rd; cross
Gt Western Rd into Maumbury Rd, and
head to the Maumbury Rings e, a
Neolithic henge, then a Roman amphi-
theatre and later a place of public
execution. Return on Weymouth Ave
to South Walks Rd, back to the car park.
ª Head south on Weymouth Ave,
turning off right on Maiden Castle Rd.

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