Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

(Tina Meador) #1

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2 Old Sarum
Wiltshire; SP1 3SD
On a windswept hilltop, formidable
earthworks and scanty Norman
remains mark the site of Old Sarum
(open daily), an important settlement
that flourished from around 500 BC.
Occupied later by the Romans and
Saxons, it was then fortified by the
Normans who also built a cathedral
here in the 12th century. The site was
abandoned in the next century, when
Salisbury became the regional centre.
ª Turn left out of Old Sarum onto the
A345, then left to Upper Woodford.
Follow the road until it joins the A303,
turn right for Stonehenge. Bear right on
the A344 past the stones to the car park.

3 Stonehenge
Wiltshire; SP4 7DE
England’s grandest and best preserved
stone circle appears dwarfed by the
expanse of Salisbury Plain. Built in
stages between 3,000 BC and 1,600
BC, the huge stones and earthworks
originally formed part of a much
larger complex. The exact function of
Stonehenge (open daily) is obscure
but, given the alignment of the stones
relative to the rising and setting sun, it
is likely to have been astronomically
connected to religious rituals. Its

The riddle of the stones
Composed of a ring of upright stones
topped with lintels, a horseshoe of
trilithons (two uprights and a lintel),
and a ring of bluestones, Stonehenge
remains a mystery. Why was it built?
How were the stones moved here,
some from as far away as the Preseli
Hills in Wales? The most extraordinary
fact is that the whole complex was
built without any more sophisticated
tools than picks made from antlers
and shovels made of bone.

1 Salisbury
Wiltshire; SP1 1EJ
One of Britain’s great cathedral cities,
Salisbury has a compact centre that is
ideal for a leisurely stroll. Salisbury
Cathedral (open daily), built over a
period of just 38 years in the 13th
century, is an unusually fine example of
Early English Gothic. The soaring 123-m
(404-ft) tower can be explored on a
guided tour and the library holds an
original copy of Magna Carta. Learn
more about the city’s history, as well
as that of Old Sarum and Stonehenge
in the Salisbury and South Wiltshire
Museum (open Mon–Sat; daily Jul–Aug),
behind the cathedral. Finally, take a
short stroll west of the cathedral to the
water meadows, to enjoy the classic
city views painted by John Constable.
ª From the centre, head north on
Castle St onto the A345; park on site.

VISITING SALISBURY
Parking
The best car park in Salisbury is Central
Car Park (signed) by the Playhouse.
Tourist Information
Fish Row, SP1 1EJ; 01722 334 956;
http://www.visitsalisbury.com

Below The huge, impressive Neolithic stone
complex at Stonehenge

Above Salisbury Cathedral, with the highest
spire in the UK Top right Narrowboat on the
Kennet and Avon Canal, Devizes Bottom
right Ruins of the Bishop’s Palace, Old Sarum

BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

WHERE TO STAY

SALISBURY
Cathedral View moderate
Intimate B&B behind the Cathedral and
with views of it from the front rooms;
(all four rooms are ensuite).
83 Exeter St, SP1 2SE; 01722 502 254;
http://www.cathedral-viewbandb.co.uk
Red Lion Hotel moderate–expensive
This characterful coaching inn is nearly
800 years old and filled with curios and
period pieces. There is limited parking.
Milford St, SP1 2AN; 01722 323 334;
http://www.the-redlion.co.uk
DEVIZES
The Bear Hotel moderate
This hotel has numbered royalty among
its guests. Rooms are comfortable, and
there’s live jazz in the cellar at weekends.
Market Place, SN10 1HS; 01380 722
444; http://www.thebearhotel.net

AVEBURY
The Lodge expensive
Wake within sight of the stones in this
lovely Georgian upmarket vegetarian
B&B. Only two rooms so book ahead.
High Street, SN8 1RF; 01672 539 023;
http://www.aveburylodge.co.uk
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