Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

69

4 Devizes
Wiltshire; SN10 1JG
This historic market town has one of
the finest main streets in the region,
graced by elegant buildings from all
eras. On Long St, the Wiltshire
Heritage Museum (open daily) traces
the history of the county from earliest
times and has an excellent prehistoric
collection. Take an enlightening tour
of the Victorian Wadworth Brewery
(open Mon–Sat; 01380 732 277; http://www.
wadworth.co.uk), on New Park St, with
samplings on most days. A brief walk
west of town along the Kennet and
Avon Canal leads to Caen Hill Locks,
an extraordinary succession of 29 locks.
The canal, which stretches for nearly
96 km (60 miles) between Newbury
and Bath, dates from 1810. Explore
the outstanding beauty of this great
waterway on a narrowboat rented
from Devizes Marina, north off the A361
(01380 725 300; http://www.devizesmarina.co.uk)..)
ª Head northeast along A361, turn
right at a roundabout, through Horton
and past a white horse on the chalk hills.
Turn left towards Marlborough, then left
for East Kennett. Turn left on the A4, then
right onto the A4361 for Avebury. Pass
West Kennet Avenue, a procession of
stones leading to Avebury. Park on site.

5 Avebury

Wiltshire; SN8 1RE

Sprouting out of the earth like broken

teeth, the three concentric stone

circles of Avebury (open daily) are less

famous than Stonehenge but far more

accessible. Erected between 2,850 BC

and 2,200 BC, the rough-hewn stones

extend through the village and

beyond and are ringed by a huge

ditch and earth mound. The site has

suffered much over the years, and the

stones largely owe their present

appearance to Alexander Keiller, an

amateur archaeologist who excavated

and re-erected many of them in the

1930s. Other sites within walking

distance include Silbury Hill, Europe’s

largest man-made ancient monument,

and West Kennet Long Barrow, a 100-

m (330-ft) chambered tomb mound.

ª Take the A4361 west, then take the

A4 through Calne, follow signs on to

Bowood House on the left.

Above Caen Hill Locks on the Kennet and

Avon Canal, Devizes

Above Silbury Hill, one of several major Neolithic

sites close to Avebury

Above Elegant façade of Bowood House, one of
the finest stately homes in England

location at the heart of a dense area of
Neolithic and Bronze Age monuments
and burial mounds adds to its aura of
spirituality. There is no direct access to
the stones (visitors must follow a path
around them) but free audioguides
provide an informative commentary.
ª Turn right out of the car park and
continue northwest along the A344 and
A360 to Devizes.

6 Bowood House

Calne, Wiltshire; SN11 0LZ

“Capability” Brown and Robert and

James Adam were among the garden

designers and architects who worked

on Bowood House (open mid-Mar–early

Nov), a superb stately home dating

mainly from the 18th century. Inside

are displays of costumes, porcelain

and Indian artistry, and the laboratory

where Joseph Priestley discovered

oxygen in 1774. There are spectacular

rhododendron walks in the grounds –

at their best April to June – as well as

grottoes and an adventure playground.

ª Exit to the A4 west, then south on the

A342, then right at Sandy Lane for

Lacock. The car park is on the left.

DRIVE 5: A Spiritual Journey

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

EAT AND DRINK

SALISBURY

Polly Tea Rooms inexpensive

There are both indoor and outdoor

tables at this buzzing tearoom and

restaurant opposite St Thomas’ Church.

Grilled goat’s cheese, baked potatoes

and lasagne feature on the menu as

well as lip-smacking pastries and

artisan chocolates.

8 St Thomas’s Square, SP1 1BA; 01722

336 037; http://www.thepolly.com; open in

daytime only

AROUND DEVIZES

The George & Dragon moderate

Inventive modern dishes are served in

this welcoming gastro pub on the A342

3.4 km (2 miles) north of Devizes. Spicy

crab risotto and game dishes are

among the specialities. It also has some

stylish rooms.

High St, Rowde, SN10 2PN;

01380 723 053;

http://www.thegeorgeanddragonrowde.co.uk

AROUND AVEBURY

The Waggon and Horses inexpensive

This large thatched inn lies 2 km (1

mile) from Avebury’s monuments on

the A4. Tuck into steaks, pies and

traditional English dishes, as well as

curries and lasagne. There’s also a

pleasant garden.

Beckhampton, SN8 1QJ; 01672 539 418